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powervalves not closing


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paul

 
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powervalves not closing

Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:37 am » Post: #1 » Download Post

hi guys

I just had a miserable time at the last race meet on my mc21

hard starting, no power, traced to a range of faults including a stuck ring and and dead battery

once these were sorted it appears the valves are still playing up and to be different they open but dont close

My normal means of setting is to unplug the tps, yurn it on and the valves cycle to open

This only happens now with the motor started and when moved to open they stay there regardless of revs etc

we have checked the tps which appears to be working and swaped the servo motor out with one from my 28 (so know to be good) but no change

does anyone have any ideas? I'm getting desperate as the last round of our race series is comming up and the a four strokes to rubbish

Paul
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nxrsr20

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 5:46 am » Post: #2 » Download Post

Swapped pgm?
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paul

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 6:55 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

If i could i would, i dont have another pgm3, my other nsr has a pgm4
Nsrs are not common here and i have the only 2 around where i live, i can buy another pgm3 oit of austrailia but they arent real cheap so was looking for some advice first
If it was the normal problem of valves not opening it would be way eaisier
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nxrsr20

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 10:07 am » Post: #4 » Download Post

Can you fully open your RC valves and then turn the bike on or do the TPS test? Of they don't move back then I would say it is your PGM.
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pbekkerh

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 4:14 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

In another RC valve thread I gave the colours of the Valve wires to be used when testing the valveservo with a direct 12 Volt
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MC21SE, KISS box
MC21SP, HRC box, racing loom
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paul

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:50 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

Thanks, i used your info yesterday to check the servo and it moves in both directions
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paul

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 7:52 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

The servo moves to full open when the motor is started, normally they open with the tps unplugged and key on but not this onr
No matter what it doesnt return to closed or low position
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TuckerBag

 
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Fri Jan 04, 2013 11:13 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

It seems like you really need to try another PGM-III. Or send your PGM-III to someone else to try?
But, as that is difficult to do, maybe just to make absolutely sure its not the battery, try hooking up a well charged car battery via jumper leads, and try running it.
I have been made to look pretty stupid, due to what I thought was a good battery, in the past.

With race day looming, maybe you can just set the power valves permanently open (with the servo wires disconnected) and see if it will be OK at the track like that?
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paul

 
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Sat Jan 05, 2013 6:51 am » Post: #9 » Download Post

More time with the multimeter today but no results, so have ordered a pgm and will see how we go
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paul

 
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Sat Jan 12, 2013 1:57 am » Post: #10 » Download Post

well!

with a new pgm I'm poor but the powervalves work

little confused on the setting of them though, i marked the servo to where it opens with system live and tps unplugged,

then with tps still unplugged and rev to 10k it doesnt move any further? going by the instructions on this site it should move a bit further round?

paul
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paul

 
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Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:11 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

it seems to go a bit further round with the tps plugged in but difficult to hold it there as it only happens with the throtle wide open

I assume that is the mark I should set to?
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pbekkerh

 
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Sat Jan 12, 2013 2:57 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

paul wrote:well!

with a new pgm I'm poor but the powervalves work ...............
paul


If you google around you can find a guy who repairs PGMIIIs, so you'll have a spare, next time around.

Poul
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Andy
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Sat Jan 12, 2013 9:16 am » Post: #13 » Download Post

OK, first things first. Ensure you strip the RC Valves out of the barrels, and clean them meticulously. Carbon build up on the RC Valves is the number one killer of PGM's. It's not hard to do, and there are countless posts on the forum on how to do it.

Second, when setting the valves, just use the TPS method for now:

1. Turn off the IGN
2. Set Run/Kill switch to OFF
3. Disconnect the TPS
4. Turn on the IGN
5. Set Run/Kill switch to ON
6. Set Run/Kill switch to OFF
7. Turn off the IGN

Adjust valves. Use a dowel or close fitting drill bit to lock the RC Valve pulley to the backplate. Allow 0.5~1mm of free play in the cables. To check them, pinch them by the servo pulley. You should be able to feel a little "give" in each pair of cables.

8. Re-connect TPS
9. Turn on the IGN
10. Set Run/Kill switch to ON
11. Set Run/Kill switch to OFF
12. Turn off the IGN

Now re-check RC Valve alignment, and repeat as many times as necessary to get proper alignment! Repeat a couple of times until you are confident the RC Valve pulleys align with the marks on the backplates as accurately as possible.

Often one Valve will go slightly out of alignment as you adjust the other. This is because it's easy to move the servo while adjusting, and why I recommend you re-adjust them a couple of times each.
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paul

 
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Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:50 am » Post: #14 » Download Post

hi

set as per instructions on the site for the tps method and the bike runs well although difficult to get a feel for top end power up and down the drive but midrange is a huge improvement
if I move the pulley to where I had marked however the valves could still do with being a little more open, how can I get confidence that they are going right round
as they are (set to the marks) if i move the pulley as far as it will go they seem about perfect, does it go all the way around?

The fiddling never stop though as now its all together the float needles need replacing but thats another story

paul
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