I was playing with suspension adjustment and noticed that the rebound on one of my fork legs wound right in past the top of the fork leg so i stripped it down to see if there was anything obvious. Anyway it just looks like it screws down further for some reason, i was wondering if anyone has had this before or if it will affect the supension if i just work from the top of the rebound and work down because obviously i cant work from fully wound in.



image showing the rebound adjuster round to its stop




image of usual stop position for rebound.

You really need to play around with the unit and get an understanding of how the rebound adjuster works.
I got a little confused when I was pulling my forks apart too.

Basically you need to set it up so that you get about 10-12 clicks of movement out of the screws. And set it up the same on both forks.
The adjuster screw should NOT screw in as far as your deepest one does.

If it screws in too far, then (from memory) it just plain blocks the fluid flow, I seem to recall.
Sorry I can't give decent detail, but if you unscrew the top unit and play around with it a bit, you will see that you can set the amount of rebound adjustment by screwing one part into another until you have 10-12 clicks of adjustment and then locking it off with the locknut.
I think the standard setup gives 10 clicks, but I set mine to give 13 clicks of adjustment.

Hopefully someone else can give a better explanation?
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[color=#808080][size=9]Yes,.. I too know how to waste Time and Money,...

That's an '89-'90 year RS250 rebound adjuster.
You need to refer to the RS250 manual to see how to set it up. The dampers are different to the NSR set-up.
Did you get the forks from Paul Tye by any chance?
If you did, they are my old forks from my race bike. A mixture of NSR stanchions and lengthened damper rods/tubes.

Actually, I could be wrong here!
I seem to remember that the RS adusters had two O-rings. Also, they have a six sided top to them too.
I think I'm talking rubbish!
I'll get my coat!

The rebound adjuster screws too far down, because the preload piece wasn't screwed onto the damper rod correctly.

Here's how it's done...or at least how I do it.

Wind rebound adjuster all the way out.
Wind rebound screw in 13 clicks (it won't bottom or anything so count the clicks)
Make sure locking nut on damper rod is all the way down.
Screw the preload assy onto damper rod until you just feel resistance. STOP! This is the rebound needle touching the damper rod orifice.
Wind up locking nut until it just seats. Finger tight.
Wind out rebound adjuster 2 or three clicks.
Tighten locking nut.
Check to see how many clicks of adjustment you have. To be honest, anything more than a few clicks out from fully in makes little difference.

Don't get all stressed if one fork has 12 clicks and the other 13. You could spend all day playing with it and it wont make any difference to the riding experience.

Maybe others have a different method......feel free to share.

I was going to quote your way above, as that is what I followed when I had standard fork legs.
I was too embarrassed after my babbling on like an idiot earlier though!
Who would listen to me now? I wouldn't!

sorry been a mad couple of days and not been online but thanks for everyones input and yes chester362 they are standard forks out of my 21 se. I will get in get in the garage tomorrow and set them properly as you described Matt.

Much appreciated,
Andy