Hey guys,

First off, I can't say enough about this community. Great people, zero trolling, and an all around great NSR resource.

I'm Dan, currently living in Japan, and have really been getting into two-strokes. I ride an RGV250 VJ21A, and recently picked up an MC18 at an auction. The MC18 has been sitting, but starts. The only real issue with the bike is extensive build-up of rust. Luckily, it's on parts that can be replaced, fairly easy.

For all intents and purposes, this MC18 is a project bike. I bought it with the intentions of taking my time, and seeing what I can achieve. I'm by no means a great rider, much less, a world-renown two-stroke tuner. However, working on my VJ21A, the satisfaction you get when something runs, and looks RETRO, is amazing.

In addition, I want to take advantage of the local parts found in Japan. Unfortunately, there is a fine line between the MC18 and MC21, in terms of aftermarket parts.

The first order of business deals with the triple clamps; the corrosion on both upper and lower are beyond repair. In searching for some, I came across the TYGA Triple Clamps Set. The forks are in decent condition, but I'd like to have caliper and disk brake options later down the line. To be honest, I'd rather sell the stock forks, and upgrade to the NC30 setup, as recommended per the Tuning section of NSR-WORLD!

What I'd like to know is if the inverted setup, RVF4000/NC35, is possible on an MC18. I've seen them done on MC21 and above. What are your thoughts? Any would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers from Japan!
Dan

Hello Dan, and welcome to NSR-WORLD.

Good luck with the MC18 build. Although it's not quite so easy to work on as the MC21 and MC28 (a little more room in the frame, and better laid out), I think you will be amazed at the difference between it and the VJ21! It's in a whole different league to anything else of it's era.

You don't say which model it is. Is it an R2/4J (Mk1/SP) or R5/6K (Mk2/SP)?

In answer to your forks question:



RVF400 NC35 forks on an R5K. There are drawbacks though. Reduced steering lock, being just one of them. I'd be more inclined to go for MC21SE forks, or the NC30 conversion if you want bigger discs, but in reality, the NSR doesn't need them. If you go for MC28SE forks (or SP if your budget allows), you can use the later Nissin calipers, which some argue are better, but I can't see it personally. I think those who make the claim just like the fact they can get gold calipers from a different model, and are simply "parts tarts"!
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Andy.
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Hey Andy,

Sorry, the MC18 is a MKII R5k. I haven't taken any photos of the bike myself, but here's the auction shot.



Considering all the extra perks, such as the rear SP wheel, the Jha chambers, and a whole ton of rust, it was basically given to me. Once I get enough time to tinker with it, I'll probably be taking more photos of the bike myself; perhaps for a build log, or something.

Unfortunately, I'm limited to bikes of the '89 year group, no later. I'm leaving Japan next year, and am making use of the 25 year exemption importing rule, bypassing all fees.

Woah, that's a great shot of what I've been wondering. Is that a swing arm conversion too? Nice.

Yeah, in all honesty, the needs are in the triple clamps. Forks are simply for aesthetics. Inverted forks look interesting, and if budget permits, can be a nice mod to go with the aftermarket triple clamps. However, if the forks aren't inverted, I might just keep the forks I have on now. They don't look bad, and on rides around the block, feel pretty good.

Hmm..

Best regards,
Dan

Although the R5K is the simpler of the two MC18s electronically, by virtue of its PGM-II, it's the more complicated bike to look at. The air correction is more sophisticated than the R2/4J, which is the first thing you will notice removing the fuel tank. The swingarm/rear brake can be arguably be considered more complicated too, with the torque arm arrangement.

The mechanics of the motor however, are largely unchanged from MC16 to MC28, and the overall package is definitely refined over that of the R2/4J. The '89 is a great, and often underrated, bike!

As with ANY new NSR purchase, ensure the RC Valves are clean and move freely by hand. Sticking RC Valves are the number one cause of PGM failure on the NSRs.

Check out the Tech section in the Workshop for plans for the HRC link plates the raise the rear ride height. NSRs really eat up extra rear ride height; the MC18s more than any other model.

The photo of that MC18 above, with the Pro-Arm conversion and NC35 forks is from a build thread in the Members section.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

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I if i wanted to change the frontend i'd swap it for a late model front end off a CBR600RR with the later style radial caliper, replace the springs to suit the lighter bike (in reality my hundred plus kg's means there probably fine just as they are). And then get my ohlins guy to work his work his magic on the dampeners (I don't actually have an ohlins guy).

Maybe pimp it out by getting the sliver finish on the sliders anodised maletic red or maletic blue if it's a rothmans.

I'd be curious to know how much the weight of the bike increases by fitting a U.S.D front end, as they tend to be heavier and the effect of this on the handling.

Stock lowers+NC30 uppers+Tyga preload/damping adjustable caps+Ohlins cartridge internals (if you have "a guy")=

Looks like skf seals too