Im in the process of rebuilding my bike and engine after a winter stripdown and came to put the oil pump in and figured i would bleed it manually before bolting it in. I have never disconnected oil lines to the pump or disconnected it electrically, oil comes out of the bleeding point bolt and also if i pull the splined shaft out of the pump body but it will not come out of the nipples (lines to carbs are attached to carbs still i just wanted to make sure it was coming out of pump first) when i turn the shaft. I have tried with ignition on and pulling oil pump cable as well. Can anyone give me any tips? I take it that the ignition does have to be on? The only other thing is that i dont have carbs on yet, and im not getting any noise when i turn ignition on like RC valves rotating but i take it that this is because carbs arnt connected.

Any help greatly appreciated,

Andy

Spin the pump with a drill.

ok, i did read that in watfordhorns thread on the same matter. My problem is the same as in his thread but i know mine was working before i broke bike down and it hasnt been disconnected as stated above.

Cheers.

I'll hold my hand up here.

I've never ever tested a pump, the best it gets is to bleed the oil out of the pump using the bleed bolt. I've never premixed the fuel or tried to get oil out of the lines with drills or running the engine etc.

Fill oil tank, bleed pump, go for ride.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

StephenRC45 wrote:I'll hold my hand up here.

I've never ever tested a pump, the best it gets is to bleed the oil out of the pump using the bleed bolt. I've never premixed the fuel or tried to get oil out of the lines with drills or running the engine etc.

Fill oil tank, bleed pump, go for ride.

Same here.

The way you used to bleed Yamaha DT175 and RD125 pumps after a rebuild was to use the bleed screw on the pump first. Bleeding it until you couldn't see any more bubbles coming out. Then start the engine and pull on the pulley cable, so the pump was pumping at full capacity.
I think you had to keep the revs just above idle, maybe 1500 to 2000 max for around five minutes.
The engine relied on the liberal amount of oil poured on the main bearings, little ends and smeared on the piston and bores during the rebuild process while the air was being bled from the pump delivery line.

Also, on the NSR pump, doesn't the solenoid restrict the pump output drastically at low engine speeds and when there is no power to it? Or am I talking sh!te!

If it was working before and your 100% happy it still works then just bleed it with the bleed bolt. If your not sure like I wasn't then spend 20 mins, remove the two bolts and put an electric drill on the shaft and spin it. If I hadn't I would of ended up with a rather more expensive bill than just the new pump.

You could also just run it on a bit of pre mix until oil flows, I did that but it still didn't flow which is why I connected the drill and found for sure it was the pump that was faulty. The other pumps I had flowed oil almost straight away.

Stephen cover your eyes. I attached a drill and gave it a slow spin up with ignition on and cable pulled and after not long at all oil dripped out the ends of the nipples. Job done and thanks for the tip.
If your looking at this on a search its definitely a good idea to try (if unconventional) as the feed is very slow in nature so you will be spinning that shaft for a while.