Hello

I am trying to set up a zeeltronic for a 1986 MC16. I was wondering if anyone might know where I might be able to find any information on the original ignition curve and power valve opening RPMS. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

Todd

Hello Toddo, and welcome to NSR-WORLD.COM

I've never seen a Zeeltronic fitted to an MC16, so will be interested to hear about your results in due course.

Here are the ignition specs from the MC16 section of our Honda approved NSR250R Service Manual:



I would suggest initially opening the RC Valve at around 7000rpm, and experimenting from there. Even the MC16 is a bit more sophisticated than simply opening and closing them based on RPM, but there is little data available.
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Andy.
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The chart Andy provided gives you a pretty good idea of where you can start.

Try 5° BTDC at 0~500rpm. Should be easy to start then.

Then ramp up to the 24°. Then retard off at 7,000rpm to 4° at the rpm shown.

The final timing of 4° is quite retarded but should work and will rev.

For the RC valve. Keep it closed until 7,000 ish. Then set it fully open at around 10,000. This will then open linearly, which is certainly not optimal but should get you going.

I have a Zeeltronic for the NSR sitting on my desk right now. Looking forward to testing at some point if I ever get ten minutes free.

Borut at Zeeltronic is a super nice guy and extremely helpful, so if you get really stuck then I'm sure he'll give you some pointers.

Use the above info at your own risk. I haven't used an after market CDI on a 16 so won't take responsibility should anything go wrong.

Matt.

Andy wrote:Hello Toddo, and welcome to NSR-WORLD.COM

I've never seen a Zeeltronic fitted to an MC16, so will be interested to hear about your results in due course.

Here are the ignition specs from the MC16 section of our Honda approved NSR250R Service Manual:



I would suggest initially opening the RC Valve at around 7000rpm, and experimenting from there. Even the MC16 is a bit more sophisticated than simply opening and closing them based on RPM, but there is little data available.

Thank you kindly Andy this is exactly what I was after!

Todd

Matt@TYGA wrote:The chart Andy provided gives you a pretty good idea of where you can start.

Try 5° BTDC at 0~500rpm. Should be easy to start then.

Then ramp up to the 24°. Then retard off at 7,000rpm to 4° at the rpm shown.

The final timing of 4° is quite retarded but should work and will rev.

For the RC valve. Keep it closed until 7,000 ish. Then set it fully open at around 10,000. This will then open linearly, which is certainly not optimal but should get you going.

I have a Zeeltronic for the NSR sitting on my desk right now. Looking forward to testing at some point if I ever get ten minutes free.

Borut at Zeeltronic is a super nice guy and extremely helpful, so if you get really stuck then I'm sure he'll give you some pointers.

Use the above info at your own risk. I haven't used an after market CDI on a 16 so won't take responsibility should anything go wrong.

Matt.

Thank you Matt

I set up a Zeeltronic for my RZ250 and you are right about Borut he is excellent. My next concern is getting the wiring right for the exhaust servos

Todd

Keep us posted please, Todd! 😀

Feel free to add both the MC16 and the RZ to the Members Garage sometime.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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Wiring for the servo is simple. There's two main power wires (12V) and then three wires to the potentiometer.

The potentiometer has a 5V+ve and a sense ground. The third wire is the wiper.

If the 12V wires are hooked up to the correct wires (either way round) and the potentiometer wires are correct then you will know if the 12V lines are the correct way around as the servo will either operate correctly or operate in reverse. To solve this either swap the wires around (best option) or fudge it in software (lazy option but works).

I don't have the MC16 wire diagram to hand so can't tell you the colours, but the MC16 through to 28 all operate the same way.

Cheers,

Matt

I'm loathed to upload any more, as it just gets stolen and plagiarised elsewhere. 🙄
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Andy.
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There ya go.

W/Bk and W/R are the 12V supply to the servo. If these are connected the wrong way then it'll just mean that the servo will operate in reverse as the direction of the current is switched back and forth depending on which way the servo is supposed to rotate to make the feedback from the potentiometer match the parameters set by the CDI/RC valve controller.

lt/Gn is the wiper wire from the potentiometer. Pretty straightforward this one.

The remaining W and Gn/Bu wires are the 5V signal for the potentiometer. Easy to just stick a voltmeter across these to identify the +ve side so that you get it the right way round. The voltage measured will probably actually be less than 5V but hey ho......

What could possibly go wrong?

Matt.

I felt the light green was a little misrepresented... so adjusted it! 🤔🤣🤣
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

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Andy wrote:Keep us posted please, Todd! 😀

Feel free to add both the MC16 and the RZ to the Members Garage sometime.

Thanks Andy
It will be a wait for the zeeltronic to arrive in Australia.
I will get some photsos together for the gallery.

Todd

Matt@TYGA wrote:Wiring for the servo is simple. There's two main power wires (12V) and then three wires to the potentiometer.

The potentiometer has a 5V+ve and a sense ground. The third wire is the wiper.

If the 12V wires are hooked up to the correct wires (either way round) and the potentiometer wires are correct then you will know if the 12V lines are the correct way around as the servo will either operate correctly or operate in reverse. To solve this either swap the wires around (best option) or fudge it in software (lazy option but works).

I don't have the MC16 wire diagram to hand so can't tell you the colours, but the MC16 through to 28 all operate the same way.

Cheers,

Matt

Thanks Matt!