Ok I am going to share my experience of cleaning the carburetor for people who had not tried it before.
Things you will need
1st thing is get a back supporter if you have a bad back; you will be spending a great deal of time bending forwards if this is your first time.
2nd Get a good torch light, bright with led but small enough to get around in the body. Have a digital camera around to take some pictures to help you put it together again. And last get good tools for the job and some good cleaners.
Begin by taking off the gas tank, air box… then take a picture of how the carburetor is rigged up to the bike. Take some attention to the cables and give it a clean around the places where the engine will be exposed to dirt.
Take out the carburetor by disconnecting the choke, oil pump pipes and the throttle cables after that remember to block all the openings.
With the carburetor out on the work bench give it a good clean on the exterior and drain the float bows. Make notes of the balancer bolt between the two parts of the carburetor, and check the air screw for how many turns, please write it down!
With the exterior clean start to separate the two parts, keep in mind that the balancer spring and choke recoil spring might fly out while pulling them apart. Take you time on this part so not to break something. Remember to inspect that you have loosen all the bolts required for separation using blunt force on it will not help if you forgot to loosen one of them. Just after separation screw on lightly the bolts to there original place so that you don’t forget or loose them.
With the carburetor separated into 2 parts take some time to clean the medial surface which was difficult to get to while they were together. Now that the exterior is clean on each surface you may loosen the float bow for inspection of the float height and jets! Be very gentle on this part! They brake easily.
I had a problem removing the slow jets because they were on too tight, I further learned that heating the carburetor with a hair dryer will help to expand the casing and make it easier to unscrew the jets. And remember not to use force on them because they round off easily and get a good screw driver for the job!
Clean the jets and make sure they are not blocked! Specially the slow jets! Make notes of the sizes of the jets and compare them to the work shop specs!
Now if you want to remove the needle covers beware that you might need a new set of gaskets, but if you are lucky and careful you might not! Make notes of the positions of the clips for holding the breather pips in position. When you have the needle cover open use the torch light to get a good view of how to take the needle out, be very gentle on this. Make notes of needle type and compare it.
Now that both the internal and external parts are cleaned and settled to the right position with the jets all checked out you may start to put the whole thing back together.
If you were running rough before it may be that the airscrew, balancer, float height is out of position or the slow jets are blocked. With this clean up and reset to the carburetors you should be ok unless your RC valve is not in the right position or there might be an electrical problem.
I hope this will help newbie’s with no mechanical experience to over come some fear and obstacles. If I had said or miss said something please forgive me because I was a newbie as well before I over came this obstacle with the help of this web site!
NSR WORLD ROCKS! _________________ feel the wind
looks like with the new #38 slow jets i am having the symptom of 1/4 throttle rich, killed one sparky today the second one is about to die soon, i should go for the Air screw right?
when i cleaned and set the carbs this time i had fitted a in line fuel filter, would air pockets produced in the filter mess up my cold start mixture or some other thing perhaps?
Started the bike with a few kicks with choke on and ignition off then turned the key, and kicked to start. It reved all the way to 6000rpm with the throttle fully closed, i know for a fact this is bad for cold start and i can feel the engine sounds a bit different after that episolde, what would make it do this exactly? dont think it can stand another one.
any help will be thanked greatly. _________________ feel the wind
Hmm, so you have oily plugs but it revved its nuts off on starting? High revving is usually a sign of a weak mixture - I'm thinking air leak, but fouled plugs would contradict that... _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
yep was a kind of an air leak, was being busy for the past few days and the weather was bad, so the carbs were dry didn’t wait long enough for the gas to go down and push the air out so there was a air pocket. Now it’s fine during starting! Went out today after adjusting the air screw it is now 2 turns out.
During warm up the revs drop by 1000 rpm when trying to idle at 4000 rpm but after it had warmed up it will rev over 4000 rpm while trying to idle at 4000 rpm. What does this mean? Oh and big hesitation for higher rpm MJ is 115 going to post for some 110 on the net. _________________ feel the wind
its #110 or 115 on the manual i have 115 right now and its giving me a bad time, so just want to try out 110's before i do anything else. _________________ feel the wind
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