has anyone fitted one of those battery eliminators? as i realy dont want to have a big heavy honda battery on the bike or would i be better going with my idea of the dry cell battery off of a tzr 250 3xv? any opinions or ideas would be good _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
i had the idea a while ago and yes the rgv boys have made me think of doing it again as i dont realy want to be making a battery box and buying a battery _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
On my track 3XV I use a 'smoothing condenser' from a TZ250 in place of the battery. It weighs only a hundred grammes or so and works a treat (obviously you have no power with the motor off).
Perhaps of more interest to you Honda types is the fact that the CRM250 uses a very similar condenser in place of a battery. I guess there are different types with different ratings and it'd be ideal to find one that was rated ideally to work with the NSRs electrics. That said, I'd be very tempted to try one from a CRM though to see how you go...
When I had an NSR though, I remember it was quite hard work to start with anything other than a fully charged battery, so this might be a stumbling block for anyone wanting to do away with the battery on the Honda? You would almost certainly be fine to replace it with the smaller, lighter 3XV battery though. I recently replaced the much bigger and heavier trad' type battery on my 3MA with one with no problems.
from memory their smaller but realy flat and you can fit them easier and in every angle.thats why i need something like that because i cant fit normal battery where they usualy go on a tyga subframe because the rsw seats are enclosed underneath and dont realy want to have to make a new box for battery and have it where it looks out of place.it could be my ocd kicking in _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
When the loom was all in bits I had a play at running the race bike (on a PGMII) without a battery (same as a pre PGM F3 bike is, i.e. a stator and a reg/rec but no battery, everything powered from the reg/rec 12v out line), something very odd happened, it all worked, started, rev counter worked etc. but the power valves barely moved. Now I know the F3 PV motor is different, but I have no idea in what way. Don't ask what voltage was being sent across anything, when I saw the PV motor not playing ball I just put the battery back on as I was in no mood for melting any more electrics.
I also know Steve melted an F3 (pre PGM) PV controller by attaching a stock PV motor to it
Maybe one to be aware of when you're playing with not so cheap PGMIII's _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
Last edited by fontyyy on Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:31 am; edited 1 time in total
As a side note, my 1990 F3 PGM-II harness uses a 600mah NiCad battery, but the servo motor listed in the 1990 HRC manual is the NSR KV3 part number; nothing special. Even the NF5 uses a battery, so for the reason Fontyyy has given, I would be loathed to try and use a capacitor, proven by the fact I've had one in the shed since my mate gave it to me way back in 1998!
I can see your point Si, but I would take the NiCad (or possibly 3XV) route over a capacitor or no battery at all. _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
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ive managed to find a pic of a 3xv battery with the dimensions.ive just measured my old nsr battery and there roughly the same size,but the tzr battery is half as thick and the advantage of being a sealed unit is you can lay them flat.so i think i will be getting my hands on one _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
Weight is 1kg. Output is a relatively lowly 12v x 2.5ah though. I don't know how this compares to the oem NSR battery, but it might be something to bear in mind if the PGM, Powervalve servo etc. are fussy about battery output? It certainly wouldn't be worth cooking yer PGM for the convenience of a smaller battery...
You can pick them up easily and relatively cheaply enough nowadays though (around 25 quid - quite a few modern 'peds use the same battery ) so it might be worth picking one up to try?
I found that the ability to mount it where and in whatever orientation you like was very useful when I 'converetd' the 3MA. And because I did away with the 3MA's big under-engine battery and tool box combo unit the job saved almost 2kgs net. Thus making it very worthwhile for me. The NSR's battery box set-up is far less bulky though as I recall so your net weight saving is likely to be much less. I can definitely understand the convenience line of thinking though.
I'd offer to send you one to try, but the only good one I have is currently fitted to the daily commuter 3MA I'm afraid.
cheers mate and does anyone know how the power output compares please? as theres a few things on to do list,but buying a new pgm isnt one of them _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
You don't need to buy new PGM's, you need to buy old ones.
Just in case _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
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or would i be better going with my idea of the dry cell battery off of a tzr 250 3xv? any opinions or ideas would be good 
think i might bung a 3xv battery on for now 
) so it might be worth picking one up to try?