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Removing head studs?


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bandit_7
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Removing head studs?

Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:01 am » Post: #1 » Download Post

Just wondering if anyone has any tips on removing the head studs for replating?

I have tried the old double nut trick and just stripped the nut.

The exhaust studs were easy. Even the one that was broken off.

Could I weld the spanner to the nut?

Cheers
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beek

 
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:18 am » Post: #2 » Download Post

Often the suds are so corroded between the cylinder and thread that the only way is to weld a nut to the studs and warm them up with a blow lamp then undo them.
Youve already tried the 2 nut method. id aim just to get them out and replace them when youve had the cylinders replated,
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bandit_7
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:25 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

Yeah, I might just check how much it will cost to replace them at the nut and bolt shop tomorrow.

Cheers
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Dave Ett
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 2:42 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

Have you tried Mole grips? (self locking grips)

Or a stud extractor tool:

stud extractor
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caboking

 
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 3:08 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

just be very carefull removing these studs as i had one that was so corroded that when i tried to remove it using the double nut idea the corrosion around the thread inside the barrel caused the surrounding alloy around the stud to crack by the water jacket. Luckily the barrel was scrap anyway so no worries Smile
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RobH

 
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 3:51 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

Mine came out ok with your 1st method. Just make sure you spray plenty of WD40, GT85 or plusgas and leave for a bit so it can soak in
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wb

 
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 4:10 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

A few short sharp taps to the end of the stud with a hammer will help break the rust bond too - and thus help with the two-nut shuffle. put a nut on the end about flush with the top of the stud to avoid damaging the threads. Holding the cyl in a big vice is very helpful if your not doing this so far

Generally the combination of a bit of penetrating fluid, a few taps and maybe a bit of heat and some patience will get 'em out.
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Andy
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Tue Sep 22, 2009 8:14 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

Take extra caution with MC16 and MC18 (hexagonal) barrels, as there is significantly less alloy around the studs and they are much more prone to cracking. I have seen MC21 barrels crack too though.
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bandit_7
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Wed Sep 23, 2009 3:49 am » Post: #9 » Download Post

I found the best way of all. Today I went to work with the cylinders and gave them to the mechanical fitters. 10 minutes later they brought all the parts all ready for rebuilt (except the cylinders).

So tomorrow ill post the cylinders off for coating and then play the waiting game.

Cheers All.

*Just a quick question. Has anyone tried electrosil? I'm just getting the old nikasil but was wondering if it's actually worth the extra cash.
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