Hi guys...

I know some of you may suggest replacing my stock MC21 front forks for forks from another bike but before any suggestions like that I would like to ask a question.

I would like to put a set of Ohlins forks on the front end of my MC21. I want the gold and I'm pretty blind to anything else at the moment ha ha. It's so pretty, I think. Anyway, can any of you suggest what model bike does Ohlins make forks for that will fit on the MC21?

Many thanks guys...

Regards,
Alain
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Grr, boyo....500cc bi-stroker. Heaven awaits

Alain hi,

The best way to do it, I think, is to find a complete front end so the only thing that you will have to change from there will be the stem...Of course don't forget that you will probably will have to revalve the forks in order to work properly with your bike...

Hi there...

Thanks for your reply. See, thats exactly what I don't want. I want the Ohlins outer as well as inner. I want a complete Ohlins system on the front...If possible

you miss-understood Mixalisen's reply, his idea is to get a complete front end off a bike which uses an Ohlins fork as standard - such as many top spec Ducatis and RSV Aprilias. The reason we say 'complete front end' and not 'just the fork itself' is because a complete front end includes the wheel, spindle, brakes, handlebars and all the fiddly spacers and other bits that you would have to source/make yourself if you only bought a bare fork and tried to re-use the narrow NSR wheel with it.

You need to find an Ohlins fork off a Ducati or whatever and then have the NSR steering stem swapped into the Ohlins triple clamps - it should then slide in just like many other fork conversions.

I have an RVF400 fork in my MC21 - i got the complete front end off an RVF at a breakers yard. I changed the steering stem to an NSR one and in the fork went with no dramas.

As for the valving, you can have it re-valved and re-sprung with all Ohlins internals to suit your lightweight NSR, you just need to find a busniness that can set you up. New Zealand has this dude; http://kiwirider.co.nz/ckt/ for all our Ohlins needs.
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After years of moaning about immigrants now i am one...

The Ohlins can be rebuilt by a good Ohlins tech or race shop to suit the NSR and keep all the Ohlins Internals. All that would be done is the spring weights etc changed and adjusted to suit the NSR's lighter frame.

Have you tried contacting an Ohlins dealer to find out what is in their catalogue which might suit - dimensions, bikes fitted to etc...
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MC21SP Plaything
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GTS1000 oddball

Thanks Hermit,

this was the exact thing i meant by saying that...

Cheers

the aprilia rsvr have ohlins as well as the ducatis,so that may be worth looking into mate
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

My guess would be that the Aprilia, Ducati, etc. will have longer tubes then the NSR has. I would look into other options, such as contacting your local Ohlins dealer/service provider and see what options he has for you there. Possible a setup for a Honda RS, Yamaha TZ, newer Yamaha R6/CBR600RR, etc. Will most likely require custome triple trees or modified RS/TZ trees, as well as probably something special for the brakes/axle setup.

Charles is right..... TZ250 sometimes upgrade to Ohlins and they will be about the right set up for an NSR250.

The only issues with doing a complete front end swap from a large capacilty bike is the fork offsett and trail will probobly be wrong, not to mention too wide and likely to hit the rad or frame at full lock. This is a problem that happens with the RVF set up. (Or so I've heard).

Hi Alain ,

Ask Deon for some pictures , he has a 600 conversion on his front end . It looks very nice ! I think the bike handled well when i rode it at the track .

The conversion was very simple once the stem has been modified .


Neal

fwiw, I've was told by a suspension firm here in Oz that ducati 916 forks will work. I started looking into it but went with the rvf forks in the end.

racer38 wrote:The only issues with doing a complete front end swap from a large capacilty bike is the fork offsett and trail will probobly be wrong, not to mention too wide and likely to hit the rad or frame at full lock. This is a problem that happens with the RVF set up. (Or so I've heard).

That's true - the RVF fork has less offset and the sliders catch the rad cap slightly with the steering fully to the right, though that's more due to the upside down configuration - the thickest part of the fork is held at the top so it catches on the fairing and rad cap. The reduced offset also brings the front wheel closer to the front cylinder head which can cause a clearance issue with the Tyga 300 kit if you use the standard spark plugs and caps.

I've since cured these teething problems with a Honda RS250 spark plug and cap on just the front cylinder aaand i filed a flat spot into the side of the radiator cap so it clears the fairing.
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After years of moaning about immigrants now i am one...

my r6 radials work fine
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling