I've read the instructions in the tuning section a million times but I'm still confused as to where the X piece goes. The side with the jet left open to air. The 2 smaller joints go to the carb's, and the last joint goes to the pipe adjoining the Y joint.

Side left open to air - easy for Craig to figure out.
2 smaller joints - go to carbs. Ok..found those hoses on the left sides of the carbs.
Last joint - "pipe adjoining the Y joint" Here's where I'm stuck. Does this hose go INTO the Y joint or into the solenoid next to it?

I'm just confused because it appears that one thing will be left either open or flopping around. If the pic was larger in the tuning section it would be great but I just can't see the details in it I need.

Thanks!


Last edited by craigsutton on Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:28 pm; edited 1 time in total

Here's how I'm interpreting the instructions. What has me concerned is the pipe that used to run to the solenoids is now also open to air - is this correct? (I plan on removing the tube but left it in for the pic)

Andy feel free to use the higher res pic in the instructions if you want.

Craig

Yes it looks correct to me, the red x piece has a large jet in one of the arms, (it's the only one of the three arms that has a lip on the base) and is exposed to air.

I also notice you haven't remove the 'boost bottles' - the orange plastic bottles which sit in the reed rubbers. On my MC21SP road to race bike and also on the TTF3 racer, these are removed and the hole filled with bungs. The boost bottles help with road riding low speed carburation, but are of no use on a race bike. If you remove them and take time to fill the hole you get better air flow.

Cheers

Dan

Thanks Dan. I planned to do that but hadn't researched it yet.

geckoracing1 wrote:
I also notice you haven't remove the 'boost bottles' - the orange plastic bottles which sit in the reed rubbers. On my MC21SP road to race bike and also on the TTF3 racer, these are removed and the hole filled with bungs. The boost bottles help with road riding low speed carburation, but are of no use on a race bike. If you remove them and take time to fill the hole you get better air flow.

We've seen good (noticeable) results on the dyno with both the "boost bottles" (Honda call them intake chambers) both fitted and removed, and it seems dependant on different states of tune and/or pipes.

I know in at least one instance, we refitted some to one bike after it made better power everywhere up to peak, and also lost no peak!
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They also make the overall fueling much richer, one of the reasons the stock carb set up is so lean compared to the SP HRC set up.

You also have to remember there are different thickness of reed block gaskets available and this too has a large effect on the requirements of the boost bottle and the reeds.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...