Holy cow you move fast! DId you 2-pack clearcoat the top yoke, footpeg hangers etc? I'm thinking about it but word of warning, first time I used 2 pack I sprayed some cases in the corner of my workshop well away from the bikes but nevertheless all of them had a (thankfully invisible) matt layer of I don't know what on them. T-cut took it off but, I was not prepared for that.
Hudtm60 wrote:Holy cow you move fast! DId you 2-pack clearcoat the top yoke, footpeg hangers etc? I'm thinking about it but word of warning, first time I used 2 pack I sprayed some cases in the corner of my workshop well away from the bikes but nevertheless all of them had a (thankfully invisible) matt layer of I don't know what on them. T-cut took it off but, I was not prepared for that.
The top yoke appeared to have been clear coated by the factory and being cast Aluminium rather than machined not really suitable for anodising (so I'm told) so I followed suit
As its so much harder wearing than normal lacquer I purchased 2k clearcoat in an aerosol can, the funky type that has a plunger in the bottom to activate it's contents and what you don't use turns to a solid lump within a few hours, nice smell though kinda reminded me of the sweets [candy] Palma Violets we had back in the 1970's.
Also did the fork legs at the same time which might have been a big mistake as there is tarnishing appearing under the coating and I could end up stripping it back off _________________ Nick
I had mine clear coated the first time around and it did last about 10 years. Getting a good colour match on powder coat is the best options though, which is what I did this time _________________ Why do things simply when you can complicate them
Interesting. When I refurbed the legs on my RD350LC I thought about clearcoat but I think it's a short term look as eventually it deteriorates....one of the lads on the RDLCCrazy forum recommended ACF-50 https://www.learchem.com/products/acf-50.html which is used to prevent corrosion on aircraft. Just a light spray and a wipe down every now and again will keep them fork legs looking good if you decide to get rid of the clearcoat. It seems counterintuitive to me as surely it will attract brakepad dust and turn it into grime....but you just have to keep on it... aircraft owners swear by it and it's not like the old days where we rode them everyday to work, or to college or best of all, to the pub certain that two pints was definitely 'under the limit'.
AFC50 is very good as a regular protector. The pump bottle is better than the spray can
I've also tried Nyalic https://www.nyalic.com/
The challenge with it is that the surface needs to be oil free and alloy can still have corrosion in the metal, which comes back through _________________ Why do things simply when you can complicate them
Hudtm60 wrote:Interesting. When I refurbed the legs on my RD350LC I thought about clearcoat but I think it's a short term look as eventually it deteriorates....one of the lads on the RDLCCrazy forum recommended ACF-50 https://www.learchem.com/products/acf-50.html which is used to prevent corrosion on aircraft. Just a light spray and a wipe down every now and again will keep them fork legs looking good if you decide to get rid of the clearcoat. It seems counterintuitive to me as surely it will attract brakepad dust and turn it into grime....but you just have to keep on it... aircraft owners swear by it and it's not like the old days where we rode them everyday to work, or to college or best of all, to the pub certain that two pints was definitely 'under the limit'.
Re-anodising is possibly the hardest wearing option, but the problem is brake pad friction material is extremely corrosive, and when paint, clear coat, or anodising is chipped, the brake dust will immediately start attacking the alloy.
There's no perfect solution, but I've also had very good results with ACF-50. ACF-50 reacts at a molecular level with alloy oxidisation, neutralising it, and an application definitely lasts longer than anything else I've tried. I don't find it attracts dirt as much as something like WD40 or silicone spray, and you can apply it a lot "drier", if that makes sense?!
Performance Engineering treats all the vapour blasted parts (crankcases/head/barrels etc.) with a light coat of ACF-50. Or at least we did when I was there. _________________ Andy.
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I have tried laquer/clear coat and clear powder coat on refurbed fork legs, both end up deteriorating in fairly short order and look just as bad as the original finish. My 28 restoration I left them bare with the correct brushed finish and use a little corrosion inhibitor on them. This obviously will require a little regular maintenance with cleaning and re application, if you are going to leave the bike for another 20 years in a damp shed then 2 pack silver paint with an etch primer will give a durable maintenance free finish
paul g wrote: My 28 restoration I left them bare with the correct brushed finish and use a little corrosion inhibitor on them. This obviously will require a little regular maintenance with cleaning and re application, if you are going to leave the bike for another 20 years in a damp shed then 2 pack silver paint with an etch primer will give a durable maintenance free finish
you got me on that ^^
thanks for all the replies - a real education
had I know even half of that I wouldn't have bothered with clear coat, anyway I've gone onto Amazon and got some ACF-50 as I've a feeling its going to coming in handy on a lot of things, and thats not protection for the next 20yrs in damp shed
Also found this stuff XCP rust blocker that came up in a add next to ACF-50 the reviews are very mixed but still gets 5stars from MCN
I’m sure this Old Chestnut has be done to death - but please stick with me
… In a nutshell I want to fit R5K high sweep pipes to my R4 to make it look more like the works replica it was (loosely) based upon
Having read many threads on here I know they (the pipes) will fit and going by the replies you also need to swap out the sub frame and plastic undertray, - however it doesn’t seem as easy as that as there are a number of subtitle differences with brackets for the electrics, tabs for the cable clamps and also a holder for rear brake reservoir..
If we park to one side the brackets for the Pipe hangers and foot pegs the next major difference is the holder for control unit and the rear brake res
Next one is the hanger towards the front, 2 prongs on the R4 Verses the 3 prongs on the R5 plus half a dozen of these small pips for holding the plastic clips to retain the wiring
And on the rear this is on the R4 and missing altogther on the R5
So the question is … Do I carefully Cut the mounts off for the rear pegs and Pipes and transplant them onto the R4 sub frame ensuring they are positioned correctly for the cans – that way I’d retain all the brackets for the electrical system and the rear brake reservoir and keep it all neat (this is what I'm favouring and re powder coat)
Or do folk go the other way and do a straight swap and simply secure the electrics in place with cable ties and perhaps upgrade to one of these piggy back jobs to solve the brake problem, this seems to be the quick / dirty option
Definitely weld the footpeg brackets onto the R4J subframe, in my opinion, but you may need to relocate/re-position the ECU/bracket to accommodate the folded assembly. _________________ Andy.
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WHOOoo that Tyga pipe it's a work of art and justifiably pricy, perhaps when mines back on the road it will be on the list, in the meantime I’ve already got all the parts needed so I’ll be having a date with an Angry grinder and carefully moving hanger brackets across as per Andy
Andy wrote:Definitely weld the footpeg brackets onto the R4J subframe, in my opinion, but you may need to relocate/re-position the ECU/bracket to accommodate the folded assembly.
Always nice to see a load of straight fins, iv'e lost count of the hours I have spent leant over the bench trying to straighten them out at different times, as an aside, if you are trying to replicate the GP look, do you want passenger pegs ?. Looking forward to the finished article. _________________ Proud Father of , 05 ktm 400exc supermoto 2018 honda crf rx supermoto
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it's a work of art and justifiably pricy, perhaps when mines back on the road it will be on the list, in the meantime I’ve already got all the parts needed so I’ll be having a date with an Angry grinder and carefully moving hanger brackets across as per Andy
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