Just a quickie to say that my mate has built a 'plug & play' box that simply slips inline with the RC valve servo and actually got them working again.

We're still working on refining the electronics, but it worked for three laps then blew a fuse!

The plan is to make a box that will be isolated from the PGM2, 3 or 4, which will then bring the valves back from the dead. the plan is to measure rpm and throttle position and then open the valve a preset amount. I just tell him the numbers and give him the electronic headache

He says that once we've got it basically set to open at a set rpm blah blah blah, it'll then be quite easy to modify initial opening and fully open parameters either by rpm or throttle position.

I'll keep you informed

Sounds brilliant.

Keep us posted...
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

Matt
Are you suggesting Mr Honda never got the valves openiong optimally?

[Fly-by-wire PV's - That WOULD be cool!]
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Matt, what I'd like to see is a replacement electronic TPS...

I know we've briefly discussed it, and I've spoken to a couple of electronics companies over here, (way too expensive!), but if you have anyone out there who's cheap then it might be worth looking into (or not )

The current solution I have with the RS carbs is to fit in a resistor/pot at the value of WOT, or wire the existing fitting at wide oprn, which is what I have done. I was looking at manufacturing a simple circuit, that provided an electronic solution to the TPS, in the absense of the original mechanical system.

Any ideas?? I think the 300, with a fully working TPS might be something else!
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NSR300R - Why did i ever have a 250...

I'm sure that they got it pretty close for a street bike/amatuer racer, but seeing as I can't leave anything alone I want it adjustable. me me me!

If that's an issue then just leave the screw drivers in the box!

Regarding the TPS, the standard TPS is an electrical part. It's just a 5K pot.

Wahoo, I've just had an incredibly good idea for all those blokes who are running PJ type carbs with no active TPS. Just like me and Maxim.

More later, gotta see if this works.

how many are you planning to make. If you let me know what you want and a rough idea how big it needs to be/mounting points and such and I will see what I can come up with. I spent the last 20 yrs building/designing the crap you are using to type this mail. I also can write the software.
no rev limiter anyone.
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faster-faster-faster-faster+pop. oh sh*t its fecked again.

mrpsychopath wrote:
I spent the last 20 yrs building/designing the crap you are using to type this mail...

"building/designing the crap"... your words - your work?! Can't you just design/build us something better then?!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

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I can, the crap you are using is not all my fault but also the fault of the pennypinching scumbags who dont know anything about computers.(accountants) they cant fiddle a computer easily so they only let you get the cheapest sh*t known to man.(at full price +vat of course). you can easily build a brand new pc with some toys and a tft for about £250. or about $250 if you are lucky to be in the states.
Back to greater things, who has a schematic for the pgm units. with that I should be able to come up with the hardware to at least repair the all the fried ones out there, for a fraction of mr H,s prices. then we can do some ignition butchering at the same time, by adding in the hrc maps to the standard roms and fit a changeover so you can play or not. next
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faster-faster-faster-faster+pop. oh sh*t its fecked again.

Do tell Matt!
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NSR300R - Why did i ever have a 250...

The thing that "fries" in the stock Honda servo is the cheap junk electric motor itself (the brushes fry on the armature). I spent a little time searching for a replacement, but didnt find anything yet. I would think this would be a MUCH easier way to fix the problem, if we can find a motor of the same dimensions and mounting.
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Paul Herr
'88 FZR4/GSXR/YZF Frankenbike
MY BIKE PICS

I'm working out the current drawn by mine, and am going to fit a circuit breaker in a wee box plugged in line, so if the motor does start to go tits up, the CB will pop, not the PGM.
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

Just what the doctor ordered. Any progress on this doo hickey yet Matt?
my valves just took a sh*t.

The guy who involved in this works a full time job, and this RC valve thingy is something he works on in his spare time, so I don't want to give him too much hassle.

It'll be done as soon as it can be done. Sorry, but can't be more specific than that.

Update.

Been messing around with this thing and we're almost there. I saw it sort of working last Sunday, but not as good as it could be, then I got told by another guy that he'd sussed it and saw it working last Tuesday.

In the mean time I have become an electronics wizard (NOT!), and have read just about everything there is to read on the net, downloaded a million and one data sheets, and built a couple of prototypes.

I actually had the RC valve operating nicely(ish) on the bench relative to rpm. I called Paul in to see all proud of myself and then **POP**. Oh well...back to the drawing board. Hopefully my friend's is more reliable than my first attempts.

Built myself a shifter light while I was at it though. this electronics game is incredible. I rejected electronics at college and went for mechanical engineering. I wish now that I'd done both.

its called mechatronics in college over here, you would be better learning one and then the other the course is crap. and designed for spotty brats straight out of school. but when they pass, they are spotty brats who you would not trust to change oil or wire a plug.
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faster-faster-faster-faster+pop. oh sh*t its fecked again.