Ive managed to swap accross the se dry clutch and gear box to my R, it was real easy to do, BUT as you do, you dont notice things when you take it apart SO, im at the stage were gear box is in, oil gear in, kick start done, secondary gear in the casing is back on water pipes all hooked up etc etc and ive just bolted on with the 6 nuts the OUTER clutch basket. this bolts onto what is the secondary drive gear (i think thats what its called) i noticed that once bolted on it has some sideways play around 3 mm IS THIS NORMAL? i didnt see any extra spacers taking it off and ive made notes how it all came off But i cant remeber if the sideways play was there before i took of the casing on the SE, if someone has a dry clutch could you check im sure even with the plates in itll move !!!!!! or maybe when the plates go in it tightens it all up??? I dont know anyone help Matt? Andy?? dont want to finish off incase i have lost a spacer or it all needs to come off???
side ways play !!!!! not very clear, if your looking at the clucth fron the side of the bike looking down what would be the shaf of the gear box. it goes in and out by 3mm or so!!! I think i remeber my Ducati being like that but that was italian and i expected it LOL
no! the only bearing i can think of like that is on the end of the push rod and i havent got tha far, when the engine case is off one of the last things you do is slide the secondary gear back home, ive done this with all flanges in place and roller bearings it sits very well and looks as it should! the once you put the case on there is a ruber seal that makes contact with the secondary gear and slides over it as you push the case home, that looks okay also and the case tightend back up with no gaps or issues, i was wondering if there is awasher that goes between the outer basket of the cltch and the iner part, so that when the clutch nut is done up it holds it all together BUT i cant remebr taking one off and i cant see one if the parts diagrm. !!!!!!! max if its not the push rod your talking about can you paste a link to the relevant parts page and the item number? Cheers
There's generally a small amount of back and forth play in the countershaft (sprocket shaft), but not in the mainshaft. The outer basket will have a small amount of freeplay too as it spins on a pair of bearings and is not solidly mounted to the mainshaft so needs clearance. The inner hub should not have any play as it's tightened down against the collar that the outer hub spins on.
If you mean there's rotational play then this is normal, but probably not 3mm. Have to check on that. I trust that the primary drive and driven gears are off the same model ie: 21 or 28.
Matt i think you have answered my question thanks, there is back and forth on the outer basket once bolted down on the big gear (with case off its the big gear that connects to the small gear on the end of the crank) LOL that the clutch basket mounts too, its on 2 roller bearings with a 2 part coller, and yes when i did a mock install of the iner basket NO movement on the iner basket, it is the gear movingback and forth on the shaft not the shaft itsefl Cheers! it dose look about 3mm thou, IS THAT ABOUT RIGHT? but everything on that shaft went back in, INER COLLER, 2 bearings, O ring on shaft Outer coller etc (which is the bit the iner basket tightens up agaisnt i guess), Cool! i havent lost a bit, LOL just spent an hour going throu the parts section starting to wonder if honda mised a bit LOL nearly done then!
By the way anyone reading this, the wet clutch and gear box was a pieace of piss, when i started all this i was real worried but you can almost throw the wet clutch and box at the bike and itll land in the right place, good to know if you ever want to take it apart for repair, clean or like me to swap it for a dry clucth/g box
So, you would recommend the conversion? There is a dry clutch bottom-end in the Classifieds at the moment for anyone interested! _________________ Andy.
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I would recomend it if like me you have a well cared for (by previous owner) R and want a dry clutch and you can get the bits. My engine had a new crank from you Andy 3k ago, and i have proof of a top end rebuild 2K before the crank was done so it was worth it. It looks ace, sounds awsome as for performance i cant comment yet! Basically i swaped over the boxes, and clutches so the SE i have is becomming an R LOL some may ask why i didnt keep the se, Simple it runs nice but there is NO history. And yes anyone wanting to do it them selfs, and are not very technical like me. Its easier than it looks, Just make sure you take care taking the bolts off and bits out, and again when it all goes back.... The hardest bit was trying to reconnect the water pipe at the back of the casing! pain in the arse.
Problems i had... I snaped a bolt taking the G box out and needed to buy a set of studd/screw removers and a Jubalee clip broke.
Putting the Clutch and G box back i used some thread lock on the oil drive gear bolts, casing bolts, I bought 2 new gaskets (one for thr dry and one for wet) a new Clutch nut (the dry one was shagged) new springs, and i have also got a 2.9mm plate conversion as recomended here and thats it!
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