and an introduction ... just joined the list. I've got a recently-acquired, track-dedicated MC28 and I live in Japan. There are some awesome tracks here, including Suzuka and Motegi.
A few quick Q.s:
1) Do I need special tools to change the clutch? And what is the wear limit? I've got a strong clutch set I want to put in the bike, but one of the friction plates is damaged. Can I re-use one of my old, stock plates instead of the damaged one?
2) Sometimes under acceleration I get a click that feels like it's coming from the front end, but could be transmitted from the back through the chassis. I've tried to check for play in the steering head, but can't find any. Could it be the chain? This must be a common problem, or is it just normal?
3) When I got the bike everything was pretty worn out, and I've sorted most things apart fro the rear suspension, which I am assuming is in need of attention. Before I pay out the cash to have it rebuilt, is there a way to test what condition it's in?
Thanks in advance for you collective thouughts and expertise.
Dry clutch? Easy change. whip off the cover, put the bike in gear and lock the back wheel (rear brake or tie the wheel to the swingarm) and undo the 6 bolts on the outer plate. The plates then come out in sequence metal / friction.
You can use any old plates, but I've heard the best are the genuine Honda items. That's certainly what I used on mine when I raced it.
Could the click be brake pads / caliper mount related? If not I'd suggest the swingarm bearings. Check for freeplay in the back end by supporting the bike frame and jiggling the swingarm up and down - you can't do this on a paddock stand!
Shock condition? How does it feel to ride? Mostly you loose damping, so if the rebound is wound up to max and the back end is still too bouncy, then it's time for an overhaul... _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
That I don't know, but it'll be an individual measurement, as the metal plates wear too, and after several friction plate changes you may need to do metals too.
Can only suggest you contact tyga via email ask ask them - they'll probably know from the top of their heads! _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Awesome, but the friction plate parts numbers are different on the MC28 (no spec. for the MC28 available). But I doubt it's any different.
Strange, it's all well within the wear limit but I was getting clutch slip (or rev counter slip?!) not launching but at high revs, post-gearchange. Anyway, I'll exchange the innermost steel plate for a wider one like the rest to make the assembly wider and preload the springs.
My clutch bearing seems a bit sluggish, it doesn't actually spin fast does it? Is it just the slip? I mean it's really non-critical. I'll order a replacement, but I've got a track day coming up and would have to make a special trip to get a new one.
Check the basket fingers for grooves. The basket is alloy, and the plates wear notches into the thing, which can prevent them from engaging fully and smoothly.
If you find notches, smooth them out with a fine file. If they're too big you'll need a new basket! _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Ha! Seen them grooves, but didn't click that they'd hinder lateral movement. Hmmm! I wonder just how much is too much. So long as it holds I suppose it's OK.
Thanks for the tip, really wouldn't have come up with that myself.
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