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taping up radiator


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bushman
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taping up radiator

Thu Dec 20, 2007 2:07 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

Went for a run yesterday-ambient about 3degrees C-took quite a while to warm up the motor,before setting off,I am thinking that maybe I should cover some of the rad.What should I use to do this?
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cgallant
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Thu Dec 20, 2007 2:33 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

duct tape (also called racer tape).

Start in the middle of the rad, place it vertical. Add additional strips spaced evenly going outward (allow a little space between each strip).
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Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:42 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post

Why space between tape?
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cgallant
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Sat Dec 22, 2007 12:58 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

so that you still get air flow across the entire radiator. This allows the radiator to still work efficiently with the reduced air flow due to the added duct tape.
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Pekingduc
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:34 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

CGallant,

Is there a general formula you use on how much tape vs how cold? My first track day in '08 is probably going to be in April at VIR and it's usually a little chilly in the morning (I'm guessing 50-60s). My MC21 is derestricted but otherwise stock. Just want to see what works for others before I experiment for myself.

Thanks!

Pekingduc
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Andy
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 4:46 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

Temperature in the 50's~60's is DEFINITELY well within normal operating temperature of the NSR, and if you need to tape up the radiator then there is something wrong with the system.

I've ridden my MC21, that makes 65~68hp depending on the conditions and setup, in all temperatures (including 45 mile blasts up and down the A30 in very low single figure temps) and it has NEVER needed the radiator to be taped up.

Make sure you are using the correct coolant and that the system is in tip-top condition. Average temperatures in Tokyo range from a low 34°F (1°C) to a high of 87°F (31°C) -- do you really think ANY major manufacturer is going to release a road-bike to market that cannot handle that temperature range without modification?
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cgallant
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 5:49 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

Pekingduc,

with temps in the 50-60 range (air temp), you should be okay on a stock NSR250 Radiator. There were times on cold days (40's) where I would add a strip of tape to my 21 (and 28 ) just to get a little heat going quicker, and allow me to remove it if needed.

The RS has such a narrow operating temp, as well as a rather large radiator, you need to run tape most of the time. There has been a couple very hot days (as in 104 or so) where I could get away without any, but even in the 90's I have at least one full strip on my radiator.

If you compare the NSR and the RS rad, you will notice the RS is basically two NSR's layered together. The cooling performance if the RS radiator is soo much greater then the NSR, without tape the coolant temp is kept way below operating temp on most normal days.
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Pekingduc
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:15 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

Thanks guys. So unless I really dip way below 40 degrees, I won't worry about tape on a production 250.

I hear what you're saying about the Honda RS though because I did own a 2000 model shortly (long story) and I think I ended up "cold-seizing" the thing after 1 lap at VIR in April.

I'm guessing this is primarily because of the much tighter tolerances/higher compression of the RS vs NSR...

Is it April yet?!

Jae
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:29 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

I bet a 3-core RS rad is twice as efficient as a stock NSR radiator!

I'd imagine, but don't know for sure (someone will though!), that the cooling properties of neat water and glycol based coolants differ enough to effect the efficiency of a particular radiator in various conditions. An RS rad is big, but I'd be interested to know what the difference is between road and race (where coolant additives are prohibited) applications from people that use them on NSR's. I suspect the vast majority of non-race users DO NOT ever tape them up, regardless of the ambient temperature.
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Andy
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:38 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

Pekingduc wrote:
I'm guessing this is primarily because of the much tighter tolerances/higher compression of the RS vs NSR...

The NSR and RS aren't that different, although the NF5 is closer to the NSR than the NX5! Wink
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Pekingduc
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:47 pm » Post: #11 » Download Post

Yup. Boy, talking coolants are going to be opening up a can 'o worms... If I was back in sunny California, I'd be using water/wetter only but since I'm in VA now, I gotta either drain or refill with anti-freeze for the winter. And depending on the track day organizer, stuff like engine ice is allowed since it's not supposed to be as slippery but not sure if those products really live up to what they claim. Maybe one day materials and oil technology will advance to the point where we don't need to cool our engines anymore. But by then, I guess we'll all be riding silent electric bikes?! Then I'll need to add a playing card into the spokes so it sounds like something...
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:35 pm » Post: #12 » Download Post

Hmm... air/oil cooled... er, no thanks! That makes me think of crap like GSX-R's, and now I'm starting to feel a bit ill! ROTFLMAO
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Pekingduc
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:47 pm » Post: #13 » Download Post

Ah, you're referring to the old-skool "SACCS" right? Damn those things ran hot! Still don't know how my friend rode that beast in stop 'n' go traffic without exploding/melting... If I remember right, Yoshimura had to deal with cracking engine blocks before water-cooling appeared in '93.
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:56 pm » Post: #14 » Download Post

I've no idea what you are talking about, and I'm proud of that fact too! This avenue of conversation is closed!! Back to radiators, coolants and 2-strokes!! Wink
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Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:03 pm » Post: #15 » Download Post

As far as I understand, if your thermostat is working correctly, your rad could be from a dodge viper and it wouldn't need taping up...
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