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killed again please help!


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Max szeged

 
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killed again please help!

Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:43 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

I am now in Poland... dont know how all of it happened but there it goes.
Got the bike here with a trailer pulling it across 700km of country road.
first thing i got here was to change the oil pump. got a working one from a guy on this site.
Anyway here comes the problem:
Killed 2 plugs, this only happens during high rpm, right after going past 6500rpm it dies, and it only happens to the rear cyclinder. took it out it was wet. (took it out when i used one cylinder to get home not right after it died, the plug was black though...)
i am using b8es plugs and using castral power1 racing 2t oil.
the bike is mc16 had the front plug cap changed due to old and high resister being noticed, should i also change the rear one as well? or does it have nothing to do with it? carb balance maybe? or rc valve?
need more information please ask.
thank you very much.
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bushman
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Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:41 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

worth changing out the plug and cap as a start.
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lam.666

 
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Wed Nov 12, 2008 11:46 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

it could possibly be running rich, maybe too much fuel after 6500 rpms fouls the plugs?

i'd have a look at your carb first...

but on another note is it possible to swap around the spark leads? do that first if it is, saves you from buying one

but heres a link to my old post when i was fouling plugs

http://nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=46772&highlight=carb#46772

hope it helps
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scottvor

 
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Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:28 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

I could not get my bike to run or start well with BR8ECM plugs. Try a "9" heat range plug. I don't know if it is originally specified for MC16/
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Max szeged

 
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Wed Nov 12, 2008 9:40 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

Thanks for the fast reply.
i will change the plug cap as soon as i find a shop, still getting to know the place and to learn the language.
Had wanted to take the carbs apart for a long time now... it seems most of the post says that problems either start before the strip and get worse or the whole thing just wont ever be the same again after. still working up the nerve to do it. will get the plug cap first then we will see if it comes to the carb strip.
Thanks again will keep you posted. By the way any notes or advises for carb strip? other then be brave...
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lam.666

 
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Wed Nov 12, 2008 10:32 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

good luck max!

http://nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6240&highlight=

the screws on the float bowl might be a bitch to take off, so be careful that you dont round them
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Kieran

 
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Thu Nov 13, 2008 6:11 am » Post: #7 » Download Post

And replace them with nice little stainless steel capscrews Exclamation
They don't round off. Just don't tighten them up too much.

Just take it apart, take photo's each step of the way if you're not sure.
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Max szeged

 
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Thu Nov 13, 2008 3:46 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

thanks for the info. the photos are a big help too. will sure to take photos myself. take care everyone and stay safe. will reply with resaults soon.
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Max szeged

 
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Wed Dec 24, 2008 3:14 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

ok the carbs are off and sitting on my table. finaly got the time with the girlfriend on vacation. got 7 more days to fine tune the carbs before she gets back. and to let the gas smell out of the house.
so manny info watned. i am going to clean the exterior today.
going in tomorrow.
i need to be noticed for what to do and what not to do, first timer here so go gentle please thank you.
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Andy
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Wed Dec 24, 2008 5:08 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

Mark the carbs #1 and #2.

Just be careful when you take the top cover plate off (that the needle & holder assembly sits under) as there is a paper gasket that can tear, and use a very close fitting screwdriver, as the screws can round off very easily and regardless of how carefully you tightened them, they are always real tight next time you come to remove them!

It may sound overkill, but you can actually (very lightly) use an impact driver on the screws! Shocked You don't need to hit it hard, but the extra little shock on the initial movement helps release them. Wink

Get one of the girlfriends' baking trays and disassemble one carb at a time in the tray, so you don't lose any components. Make a note of the jet sizes and needle type (and clip position if adjustable). The jets only fit in their own hole, so you can't mix them up... you'll see once you've got the float bowl off.

Be careful removing the float. The pivot pin should push out very easily, and the float and needle will come out together. Make sure you don't put any excess stress on the needle spring, as it's quite fragile.

Put all the bits from the first carb in a jiffy bag and label it #1! Very Happy
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Max szeged

 
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Wed Dec 24, 2008 7:03 pm » Post: #11 » Download Post

thanks Andy i got the two carbs seperated and opened up the float bowl.
i can see a lot of rust in it and also while draining the stinker.
Can you point me to a cleaner? or something i should let them sit in for a little while for better clean.
And can you give me a idea about what a clip to look out for the position they are in. picture perhaps?
One last thing. The things i see in the float bowl just un-screw out right? they wont fall out on their own, apart from the float pin right?
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Max szeged

 
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Wed Dec 24, 2008 10:50 pm » Post: #12 » Download Post

yes Andy you were right about the top cover, i am not going to open it, because from the extent that it is stuck on i do think by opening it i will need to replace new gaskets. are there things under there that i have to get to make a rust clean? or can i leave that place out.
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fontyyy

 
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Thu Dec 25, 2008 10:23 am » Post: #13 » Download Post

Andy wrote:and use a very close fitting screwdriver, as the screws can round off very easily and regardless of how carefully you tightened them, they are always real tight next time you come to remove them!


Only crazy men put those screws back at all, little allen headed bolts are the answer.
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Max szeged

 
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Thu Dec 25, 2008 9:35 pm » Post: #14 » Download Post

just checked the float hight and it read 18mm whats wrong here? thats a bit too lean right? but why are my plugs reading rich? i checked that the airscrew is right 1-1/2 out. so what should i check next? should i adjust the float hight to 13mm?
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Max szeged

 
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Thu Dec 25, 2008 10:25 pm » Post: #15 » Download Post

Ok here goes. I opened both carburetors up. (Separately as my master said)
Both float heights are 18mm by using a ruler.
Main jets are both 115
Slow jets which are in the wholes are not able to tell. Can’t get them out yet will need to buy a better fit screwdriver.
The left slow jet is damaged inside someone must have tried to take it out but did not use a proper tool.
So here come the questions:
1. Should I change the float height back to 13mm?
2. My plug on the left cylinder always fowl up when I give a little bit of gas at around 6500rpm. Would this be the result of the bad jet? (will post a jet picture soon)
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