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RS250 non-USD fork overhaul


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invigiator

 
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RS250 non-USD fork overhaul

Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:04 am » Post: #1 » Download Post

Does anybody know the oil level for the older type forks?
ANy other points I'd need to know before tearing them apart?

Question
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Andy
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 9:31 am » Post: #2 » Download Post

I have a '92 manual on loan (which I must send back, sorry Bill!) that should have the info in. I'll see if I can look it up tonight.

Have to say a HUGE thank you to Bill "flatline" Mondok for the loan of an MC16-MC21 Workshop Manual, a couple of RS manuals, and all sorts of other bits'n'bobs that I've had for far too long now! Embarassed
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MAINE 2 STROKER

 
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possible info source

Tue Mar 08, 2005 12:57 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post

you might want to check out www.tz250racing.com
they have a forum there for RS250's
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Andy
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:05 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

Cheers... just as we're trying to get an RS Forum off the ground! Wink
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drschneider

 
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:15 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

hi,
the oil level for the 91, last non usd, is 135mm from the end of the fork pipe.

christian
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MAINE 2 STROKER

 
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:29 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

actually, i take that back, i dont see a forum there, but they do have a classified section, sorry bout that



possible info source
you might want to check out www.tz250racing.com
they have a forum there for RS250's
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invigiator

 
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 2:51 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

drschneider wrote:hi,
the oil level for the 91, last non usd, is 135mm from the end of the fork pipe.

christian


That's awesome, thanks. If asked if you had any clue how to set correct rebound needle position, would I pushing my luck? Any other technical data I'm going to need for a fork rebuild??

Thanks!!

Julian Smile Smile
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Andy
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 3:37 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

Setting the rebound adjuster is the same as setting the NSR...
From Matt Patterson's fork rebuild article on Jamie's NSR Homepage wrote:
Other important things to remember when reassembling.......

To set the oil level, hold the fork in the vice in the vertical position, with the fork fully compressed. Add the recommended quantity of oil... ...Pull the damper rod and the stantion up and down several times to bleed air from the system.

Reassemble the top cap along with the preload and rebound adjusters.

Make sure to wind both the preload and rebound adjusters out to their minimum (softest) setting. Now, wind the rebound adjuster in 12 clicks. Fit the steel locknut onto the damper rod and wind fully down. Install fork cap and adjuster assembly and wind down until the rebound adjuster needle just fits in the top of the damper rod. This must be done very carefully and lightly so as not to damage the needle. Wind the locknut up, finger tight onto the cap. hold the cap securely in your hand and wind the rebound adjuster out (soften) 4 - 5 clicks to clear the needle from the damper rod, and then fully tighten the locknut (two 14mm spanners required ). Finally screw the cap back into the stantion and tighten.

Check forks for smooth operation, and reset to original settings.

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invigiator

 
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 4:11 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

That's it! I'm doing it myself then.
The bike shop tried to charge me 150 quid (30,000 yen) and they said they wouldn't even change the seals. The guy harped on about how amateurs should not mess with suspension etc. etc.. But since I've already done a set of NSR forks, I reckon the RS forks can't be so different.

Thanks again Smile Very Happy

BTW anyone fitting old RS forks to an NSR should know, that you need to mount them as low as possible in the triple clamps ... I recommend 5mm recessed. I.e. below the top!!
This gives you approximately 10mm shorter than the HRC recommended base setting, which is quite extreme, but (I am told) not in the danger region for trail and rake.
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invigiator

 
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 5:36 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

OK,

Maybe I'm really pushing my luck here, but any chance somebody can come up with the part numbers for the seals and other disposeable parts?? Collets perhaps ...

Really you people are the best ... who would've thought you can help me out where the likes of HARC-PRO and Japanese Honda garages fail.
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Tue Mar 08, 2005 6:09 pm » Post: #11 » Download Post

These are NF5 parts, 1990-91:



Ref No. 5 -- 51412-MB4-003 RING, back up (2)
Ref No. 6 -- 51414-MN5-003 BUSH, guide (2)
Ref No. 7 -- 51415-MM8-003 BUSH, slider (2)
Ref No. 22 - 91255-MN8-741 OIL-SEAL, 41x54x11mm (2)
Ref No. 26 - 91356-NF5-951 O-RING, 37.5x2mm (2)

That'll probably do ya!

Damn... you know this is going to cost you!! Wink
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invigiator

 
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Wed Mar 09, 2005 1:14 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

Yep! That manual is on it's way .... which one did you say was missing from your collection?
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Jim
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Wed Mar 09, 2005 4:52 pm » Post: #13 » Download Post

sounds like it's too late but I can email you a PDF of the '90-'91 rs250 manual if you like.
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invigiator

 
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Thu Mar 24, 2005 9:26 pm » Post: #14 » Download Post

Is the recommended oil spec. the same as the NSR (10Wt) ?

Anybody know the volume of oil to use?


Jim, that PDF would be great! I'm sendinjg a PM, I still need the torque settings at least.
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drschneider

 
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rs

Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:51 pm » Post: #15 » Download Post

HI;
you need 350cc SAE 10W for each.

regards
Razz
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