I have decided to turn the bike into a race bike.. There is a few things I'd like to know from the experienced members here..
1. Being a race bike I have to do away with all lights etc and am also contemplating getting rid of the dash as it really is not needed.. I was planning on striping the wires out that run the lights etc, if I get rid of the dash and get rid of the wiring will that alter the PGM in any way and not allow the bike to run??
I had a similar problem with an old MC22 after a crash, it was fitted with an MC19 dash and would not run unless some wires were bipassed..
2. I was going to upgrade to the big bore kit but after further investigation it'd put me into 600 Superstock class.. Not wanting to get smashed severly by them I've decided to stick with what I have..
So I'm planning on doing some porting, matching and machining.. I have 5 years of Minimoto under my belt and have figured out a cracking port - machining combo, I'm about to do this upgrade to another of my Elite bikes and will post up pics for you guys to see and hopefully you can tell me if it would also apply to these barrels..
3. The MC18 has crap front end suspension, would all other models simply bolt into my clamps.. Just for the reason that they are adjustable??
4. The oil injection.. Can I just block it off, as I wish do do away with it and run premix, to save weight and create some room..
5. Is TYGA performance the place to go for everything I need to completely rebuild the motor or is there more??
I'm sure a few other q's will come along as I progress and I'll start to get pics up when I really progress with it..
Regards.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
1; You can just remove the speedo and warning light section off the clocks (they do just come apart on an mc18 as well) and it's wiring without any other problems at all.
3; Yes, they all fit, be aware if you get mc28 forks you'll also need mc28 brake calipers as they bolt on differently.
4; Yes, HRC list a plug (it's just a 20mm core plug) and Tyga sell a blanking plate. Without the oil pump and bottles the bike is a lot easier to work on.
5; Tyga sell everything you need. _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
Pulled all plastics and lights off.. Removed rear sub-frame and re-painted..
About to pull the motor out and started to think ahead about what I'm going to do..
Come to a thought about the server motor for the powervalves.. I have to remove the battery as the rules state and wondered wether they will still work?? Certainly I wont be able to check and set them with the battery removed..
How do I overcome this??
What parts of the electrical system and harness can I completely do away with??
Things on the to get list.. * The fake Yoshi rearsets on Ebay..
* A full system from TYGA.. What's better?? mufflers both sides or both on the same side??
* 17" rear wheel..
* Still undecided wether to get different front forks or just get the internals re-built on what I have.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
If it's a PGM-II model (i.e. r5k or r6k) it definately needs either a battery or some kind of smoothing condenser, you can't just drop the battery out of the circuit and run everything from the reg/rec.
Its been discussed before here. _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
I've read through that thread and figured it's not worth it..
I went over the rules again and I took that I had to remove the battery as it is stated in the 125 rules, seeing as though it was the only section that covers 2 strokes.. It turns out that I'm classed in 'production bike' class and there is nothing to state otherwise..
I was also going to get rid of the plastic undertray and have it hollow under the sub-frame.. Unsure wether I'll get away with it and I'd also be left with no where to mount my battery, I may just cut of the area around the battery box and mount it.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
Hi Mate
I think you will have to look into what class u can race in.
I`m pretty sure here in aus you can not run in production as the nsr250 is not an aus production bike .
Looking at a few race sites you will be looking at pre-modern f3 class(90-95) new era (81-89)
Have a look here http://www.postclassicracing.com.au/pages/raceclasses.aspx
I'm in Brisbane..
I get my info from here and off the phone from the club scuitineer..
http://www.motorcyclesportsmen.com.au/classes_of_competition.html
Production class states it only has to be able to be registered in Aus.. MA rules also state likewise..
Basically I was told that I'd be eligable to ride in Formula 3 and Formula 4..
I also own a Moriwaki 80 so will also be racing in Formula 7..
Thanks for the info though, I'll bookmark that site as I was maybe going to do a Lismore meet also.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
Sweet your rules may be different than here in n.s.w a couple of blokes i know had nsr`s a 10 years ago they raced in club meets but had to buy rgv`s to race in production series. Or it may have changed here too. I`m going to race prep my mc18 and race new era f3
Mod edit: TXT speak, read the rules and please don't do it.
FY
If you do we should attend one of each other's club meets and go at it.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
With the tail fairing.. It has a hole in the back of it for a tail light, I could patch it up I guees..
TYGA pipes look the goods!!
Those Japanese action pipes have certainly seen better days, some nice dents in the expansion chambers.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
So I've done the port, matching and machining work to my Minimoto..
The pics below are a 40cc Blata 5 port..
Untouched and stock..
Half finished comparison..
Side shot to finished side..
Different side shot, showing finished and unfinished..
Close up of the passage I cut between the transfer and boost port..
Finished..
So..
All work was performed with a dremmel and in turn is fairly rough but extremly effective as has been proven on track..
You will note that the skirts around the transfer ports are gone and are now sitting around 1mm below the deck height (can actually effectively go 3mm but this motor is for my 10yr old daughter)..
Also I have cut a small passage between the transfer ports and the boost port..
Both these mods allow the fuel/air to enter either ports easier..
I also raised the boost port by 1.5mm..
Further more matched the cases to the barrel..
Now what I would like to know is wether anyone has effectively done this work or similar to their NSR motors as I would be looking at doing this to my NSR motor..
All thoughts, comments and suggestions welcome.. _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
Anyone??
Or does this sort of info get discussed in the supporter forums?? _________________ Paranoia about failure will ensure nothing but failure to ever reach potential.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You cannot download files in this forum