Just to get some clarification on the matter:

I need to remove this nut.....


and this bush which runs from one side of the frame, through the rear engine mounts to.......


where the sidestand bolts on.


Correct? Could someone also tell me the size of the nut, as I am going to have to buy a socket to fit, and also an allen key to match the bush. (what size is the allen key?) This is the only thing that I can see stopping the engine from falling on my feet, the on-line edititon of the manual is quite vague in this area, (or it was too late last night!) So any pointers will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

What i do with that allen key bit is get a bolt that fits put two nuts on it and use that to undo it , It shouldn`t be very tight

Ahh, upstaris for thinking, downstairs for dancing! Thanks!

The square end of a 3/8 rachet or extension fits that perfect dude.

Or just get a 12mm in-hex socket and do it right. That way you'll be able to torque it all up to spec when putting it back together again.

|F.13|Kelly wrote:The square end of a 3/8 rachet or extension fits that perfect dude.

Define "perfect" and bear in mind whilst doing so that it's a hexagon.

A 12mm bolt with a couple of 12mm nuts locked togeather actually is perfect, a 3/8" socket bar is not.
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Yeah, tried both methods mentiond and went and bought a 12mm allen key socket. Got the job done, man, who thought 30kg's could be so heavy and awkward to lift at the same time?

Would have been hilarious to watch me....... back end in first, lift front, fouls! Right, frond end in first, lift back, hmmmmm fouls around the kickstart. Took some swearing to get it back in place! I really need to buy a trolly jack! But all good now and running sweet again. Though I have a seriously broken engine to rebuild, will post pics tonight of the piston to gain some feedback on what went wrong.

fontyyy wrote:
A 12mm bolt with a couple of 12mm nuts locked togeather actually is perfect, a 3/8" socket bar is not.

Have you been looking in my "special tools" compartment again Fontyyy?!
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Andy.
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Is it better to have the carbs on or off when replacing the engine? The old engine is out. New one will soon be in
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1992 NSR 250/300 SP MC21

Leave everything you can off the motor, to make it easier to handle.

Although it's a pain in the backside, keep the little black coolant splitter in place (on top of the water pump housing), as it's an absolute sod to tighten the front bolt after installation if you leave it off!
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Andy.
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However, it's removal makes swinging the engine up into place a heck of a lot easier, if you have a small (1/4 drive) extension with a wobble end (real Snap-on term, I kid you not) it's not that hard to get to.
Without one it's nigh on impossible.
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Seeing how few even seem to have a 12mm allen key or socket, I very much doubt the presence of a 1/4" "wobbly" extension in most tool kits!
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Andy.
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It's one of those things you really should have, those RC valve cable bracket bolts on the top cylinder are a pain without one too.
There's no real excuse as cheap ones are super cheap (seach ebay for "wobble extension"), a 3/8's one is also pretty handy for getting to the top spark plug.

Though I will confess to repeatedly using a 3/8 socket bar on my bottom engine mount;
I thought it "fitted" until Monkey's didn't, either his 3/8's extension is slightly more rounded on it's corners than mine or his mount was tighter, however a proper look at it revealed what was really needed, i.e. some kind of 12mm hex drive, clearly a good bolt with a deep head is fine though a 12mm Allen key (or even better Allen socket) is the correct tool.
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What real man would pass up the opportunity to buy a new tool?
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

You talked me into it! Now I want a wobble thingy
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1992 NSR 250/300 SP MC21