The crosshatching is to hold an oil film, and is needed. When everything is up to temperature the piston has almost no clearance whatsoever in the bore and purely relies on a quality stroker oil to keep the aluminium from touching the plating. As soon as the film is broken it'll nip up.
It should be somewhere in the region of 60 degree.
When I pull a motor apart I will stick a ball hone up and down the cylinder a few strokes. I do this in my parts washer while pouring kero on it. This helps wash all the particles out and cleans up any lacquer on the bore allowing the rings to seal perfectly on the rebuilt motor.
Don't ever use a 3 stone hone on a stroker or you'll chip the plating off as the stones catch in the ports.
My ball hones are always slightly smaller than the bore (As Eric Gorr recommends on his website) so you're only tickling the wall.
Matt@TYGA wrote:My ball hones are always slightly smaller than the bore so you're only tickling the wall.
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