oil pump advice

**Sat Apr 23, 2005 12:36 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post**

well finally fixed my coolant leak Very Happy

started the engine sounds sweet
but wanted to make sure is gonna stay that way so decided to make sure i was getting oil to the carbs well after following the advice in the workshop section i did bleed the pump first
Connect the feed pipes back to the pump (leaving the manifold ends unconnected) then simply turn the pump shaft until oil drips from the end of the feed pipes! Replace the oil pump and reconnect the feed pipes to the inlet manifolds.

after 30 mins of turning the pump shaft i got nothing not even a drop
me thinks its time to replace the pump i dont wanna risk another seizure
has anyone got a spare i could buy off them
cheers all

**Sat Apr 23, 2005 4:12 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post**

Try this instead:

Fill the tank with a litre or two of pre-mix @ 30:1. Leave the oil pump in place, but disconnect the pipes to the inlets.

MAKE SURE YOU BLANK OFF THE UNIONS ON THE CARBS!

You can blank the unions off by looping a piece of pipe with a knot in it (or a small ball bearing pressed into it) between the two inlets.

Open the bleed screw on the pump to ensure 2T oil is flowing from the oil tank, then tighten the bleed bolt.

Fire the motor up on the pre-mix and watch the feed pipes until oil starts to drip from them. Once oil is coming out from the feed pipes stop the motor and drain out the premix.

Fill the tank with your normal fuel, refit the oil pipes to the carbs, and away you go!
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**Sat Apr 23, 2005 4:35 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post**

Good idea.

Don't expect a lot of oil to flow, bear in mind that the bike will run a hundred miles or so an a tank of fuel, and the oil used is one thirtieth of that!
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**Sat Apr 23, 2005 4:40 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post**

Good point Dave... the oil will kind of "drip" from the pipes, not flow from them.
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**Sat Apr 23, 2005 5:16 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post**

I do wonder what the effect of the engine sucking has on the oil feed too. It must assist, but to what degree is the question?
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**Sun Apr 24, 2005 2:40 am » Post: #6 » Download Post**

Take that pump off and throw it in the trash can!!! Any stroker owner isn't worth his or her weight if they don't have a bottle of two stroke straped to their bike or upside down in their backpack Laughing

. At least you know it will always be getting oil if it's mixed in the gas.

**Sun Apr 24, 2005 3:58 am » Post: #7 » Download Post**

Then I'm worthless!

Honda made it, it works, it works even for racing.

It's easy, clean, and saves spilled bottles of oil in yer rucksack.

Nuff said. Wink

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**Sun Apr 24, 2005 8:00 am » Post: #8 » Download Post**

I'm worthless too Smile

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**Sun Apr 24, 2005 7:34 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post**

Sorry old habits are hard to break after owning Yamaha's #*&%.
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**Sun Apr 24, 2005 7:54 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post**

woohoo! im worth something!. Ive ditched the oil pump on my 18 and will be on the 21 as soon as i get it running right. I dont trust em so now wont use them.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

**Mon Apr 25, 2005 2:12 pm » Post: #11 » Download Post**

I just did the bleed and it was a bleeding nightmare!!

The pump is a screw pump, so very unlikely to be completely broken, not many moving parts there. What nobody tells you is that you have to turn it CLOCKWISE. Also what I didn't see on the tech pages was any mention of the extremely useful bleed screw. On the top by the inlet there is a screw which I can see serves no purpose other than to let air out of the system.

I doubt the vacuum from the carbs assists at all, it's going to be less than the gravity effect from the reservoir and I tried sucking as well as screwing and nothing spurted out.

Eventually I got it to work with vigourous spinning of the pump and tilting it at different angles, tapping, and bleeding off the air with the bleed screw.
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**Mon Apr 25, 2005 3:39 pm » Post: #12 » Download Post**

Don't wanna appear stupid, but then again I should be used to it Rolling Eyes

Wouldn't running premix to get the oil to flow be a bit dodgy? If there's standard main jets in it, and not HRC, won't that make it very lean?
HRC's are like 180 or something?, vs 128 standard.
Chris

**Mon Apr 25, 2005 4:34 pm » Post: #13 » Download Post**

You'll only be running it long enough to bleed the pump, not screaming the bits off of it! Smile

If you are that worried, pop a couple of #40 slow jets in the carbs.

Invigiator you are correct, there is a bleed screw on the top. Did I neglect to mention that? I will do an update.

According to the Honda book of words, you should first disconnect the pipe from the oil tank to the pump, and check the free supply of oil. (There is a strainer that can get blocked, so this will test for any problems in the supply.) Now reconnect the oil supply pipe to the pump.

Next hold the pump upside down, and at 45 degrees. Pull the pump drive shaft out and wait for oil to emerge from the drive shaft hole. Replace the drive shaft and turn the pump right-way-up.

Open the bleed screw and wait for oil to emerge, turn the shaft CLOCKWISE (thanks Invigiator!) if necessary, then tighten the bleed screw and refit the pump.

Fill the feed pipes (from the pump to the manifolds) with 2T oil (not quite sure how they propose you do that!) and connect them to their respective unions.

Start the motor to finish bleeding!

There, that's what Honda say. Smile

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**Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:25 pm » Post: #14 » Download Post**

invigiator wrote:I tried sucking as well as screwing and nothing spurted out.

This is a family site you know Shocked

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