Ok guys I looked at a sh*t load of google results and nothing helps.

It has been a bloody long time but now I think about it I am certian that my powervalves did a test cycle when the ignition was switched on.

They do not now the only cycle they do is to take the valves from the Hi position to the Lo position when the ignition is turned on, the reason for this is that when my nsr is running it will do the hi lo cycle when the throttle is bliped but for the duration of time that the bike is running the powervalves sit on hi.

When the ignition is switched off then back on again the servo will reset it back to lo.

This is causing the bike to be bloody hard to start, poor idle and bogs below 6000.

I set the valves to low since the cables have been disconnected and it started first pop! (cables move freely so no resistance on the servo motor)

Can this problem be casused by anything other than the pgm or rc valve control unit?

I have put a multimeter on the tps and that gave me a reading so I doubt it is that, though on that note when the tps is disconnected and the ignition is then turned on the servo will still stay in the lo position.

I hope someone can help.

Cheers, Ash

i had a the same sort of problem
turned out to be the battery voltage
so check the voltage at the battery with bike off and again while running

Good point!!

I did check it today and the battery gave a reading of 12.2V when disconnected from the bike but only about 11.8V or slightly less when attached to the bike with ignition on.

The sad thing is the battery was new about 2 years ago and never used.

Mite have to charge it and see, what voltage should it read when the bike is running?

batterys are only good for about 2 to 3 years and fail quicker when not in use.
check the voltage is around 14volts at idle if its not the reg maybe faulty.
when my bike had this problem the battery checked fine the first time but the voltage to the servo motor would drop and spike from 12v to 6v i thought it would have to be a short in the wiring.
but it turned out to be inside the battery itself i can put a multimeter on it and it reads 12v then if i shake or tilt the battery it will go from 12 to 9 volts and would be worse under load of cause.
any battery or auto electric place can test it for you this is your best bet as ive seen heaps of batterys that test fine 12volts on a multimeter but fail under load test conditions

Man your a legend, i did notice when i first tested the voltage on the battery it was fluxuating from 12v down to 8v i thoght it was a poor connection fom the multimeter, i will try a differnt battery tomorrow and let you know.

id say you found the problem just check the charge rate once you get the new battery

Make sure that you put your new battery on a slow charge before using it .

Done a full battery recondition charge at work, put the battery in the bike and MINT it works fine.

Since I had undone the powervalve servo I went through and adjusted the valves according to the basic guide found on the main site.

I put the bike together with out the fairings just for a test and its never run better, the smoke is clean, idles nice and starts first kick from cold even with out the choke.

All the bike wants to do is wheel stand lol I dont have the confidence to fully open it up as I have yet to experance the bike running as it should

I am a very happy man, thanks elmo for your help!!

all good mate glad to help
enjoy