So for my track bike build I plan to remove the ignition switch and run the bike from the kill switch only.

In addition I will be running the bike without the GPS, and have already done the O/Bu to Bl/W splice.

Are there any other bits that are going to catch me out I need to close off in the loom? Neutral switch?
I'm not running the oil pump, what about those wires?

Cheers chaps.

You're better off rewiring it so that the kill switch acts as the key switch. The kill switch still leaves power to run lights (dash lights maybe in your case), and other idle processes in the PGM so you'll eventually flatten your battery.

Don't forget your side stand switch.

When do you reckon your bike will be ready? It'll be good to see another stroker on the track.

So I rewired the Red and Red/Black wires of the ignition into the kill switch, and simply joined off the two wires (Black and Black white) that used to go into the kill switch.

Should do the job.

Bike must be done by the end of Feb to run it in and tune it, so I am ready for March racing.

Plus I have another bike arriving in March...

So you're going to be riding in Hartwell?

oh, what spec bike is arriving in March?

I will no doubt do what I always do, cherry pick the event I enter.

I'm looking forward to the longer races in the new Preston series, and will do some of the Hartwells for sure.

I refuse to race at Winton. I'd rather eat my dinner from the S bend of a Uni flats toilet.

The bike that is coming is a brand new italian which will be going straight on track.

Got any pics of your race bike ? Just lose as much weight as possible on the bike , remove anything that does not need to be there .

From the looks of the Preston events, you'd have to enter against the GP bikes. Good luck and let us know when you're racing, I'll try to get up and say hi.

Are you cutting your loom down as well? What "weight loss" program are you following?

Well the facker has me absolutely beaten.

This is the loom cut down (modified sections are circled):


I cut away all the wrapping, and followed all the empty plugs to their sources, then cut away the wires.

Plugged everything in;
RC servo
TPS
Solenoids
Pick ups
Tacho
Coils
Temp sender...

PLugged in battery and nothing. Read up on the forums, crank the RC servo to 'high', switch the bike on and nothing.

Attach a spark plug to the coils and turn the engine over and 'nothing'. Lots and lots of nothing.

In sheer desperation after scratching my head, reading and rereading the wiring diagram, testing and retesting wires I tried the spare completely unmolested loom.
Wired up the side stand switch
Wired up the ignition
Attached the kill switch and everything else above and
More facking nothing. Swapped out all the spare components (solenoids, RC servo) and still nothing.

So I am either missing something having converted the bike to total loss, or my PGM3 is fscked. Someone please tell me I am missing something.

I've lost all motiviation. Fscking arsehole thing.

greggo wrote:I've lost all motiviation. Fscking arsehole thing.

I know how it feels. Take a break and do something else, then come back...

Check obvious things first, like earth grounds and fuse box (if you still have one).
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2t-racelab.com

If you're on the east side of Melbourne, give me a yell and I can help.

Barring that, it is a game of patience.

The lesson for next time is make one change, test it.

Westside, spotswood.

It's nothing to do with the changes, as nothing works even with the standard loom plugged in.

What voltage should the battery give when fully charged? Is it 12.8+ (like other bigger batteries?)

Mine gives 12.2 and I'm wondering if there just isn't enough amperage to run anything, even though the trickle charger says it's charged?

12.2v DC is fine.

Are you sure you haven't made something wrong with the kill switch?
If you have nothing working -not even the dummy lights at least?-,
then I'm pretty sure it's something simple that you forgot to connect and it's just sitting there laughing at you.
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2t-racelab.com

Fairly sure. Because it doesn't work with the standard unmolested loom either.

I even put a bulb across the kill switch so I could see if it was getting power, and that lights up.

There is power across all the fuses.

Could it be something in removing the GPS?

Is there an additional ground or +ve 12v that needs to be run somewhere?

it's hard to mess up the kill switch. Black to Black white joined, Red and Red black joined, everything should be powered.

I've run an NSR with 12.2V (measured with battery disconnected) and had no problems, although I prefer to run them with 12.7V measured.

You haven't forgotten your keyswitch have you?

Spotswood isn't that far, give me a hoy if you want a hand (and that fibre clutch plate).