I'm having some problems keeping the battery voltage up on my NSR, it's running total loss and a PGM2 ignition, also it's on a stock size YTX4 battery...

The battery charges fine (it's about 12 months old, and a decent make) but drops voltage quite fast when running. I fitted a volt meter and did a trackday on Saturday.

Watch the footage and see what you think (of the voltage, not the shoddy riding)
http://youtu.be/xDTRlXhbhcA

It's a bit slow to begin with, some time sat in the pits then 2 sighting laps, but I'd appreciate some input, especially from those who also run total-loss on their NSR's please!

I'd like to get this sorted, as it stops revving cleanly once the voltage drops to about 12v and below. At 11.5ish it'll only run on one cylinder.

Does it look like I need a new battery? Or is the PGM drawing too much current? I'm wondering if the RC servo is drawing too much too..

Thanks
Paul
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More **** two strokes than you can shake a **** stick at.

I had the same thing happen at Donington remember. The F3 only used a very small NiCd battery as soon as that drained (even with a gen) the bike would only run on one cylinder at high RPM.

I think Fontyyy also had probs running total loss. I guess that's why the F3, RS, NSR500's all ran the NiCd system pretty much.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Hi Stephen,

I was thinking of trying a nicad battery, but am unsure if the PGM would be too much of a drain. I guess an RS ignition would be the best way. Did the F3's run a PGM or was it more of an RS Ignition?
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More **** two strokes than you can shake a **** stick at.

It ran an F3 PGM-II and F3 ignition which is a RS system made to fit an NSR.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Ok, maybe the MC18 PGM2 is too much of a drain on a total loss system? I'm fully charging the battery between each session but it's still not lasting very many laps. Perhaps it is the battery thats weak...
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More **** two strokes than you can shake a **** stick at.

I wouldn't think its the PGM its self as the F3/RS and stock PGM-II can all be swapped between bikes*

*some modifications are required.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Both the FIII and the RS have charging curcuits. They are however, very small, but they do put a small amount back into the system.

There appears to be a total-loss flywheel in the first MC16 TT-FIII manual, but I've never seen one.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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Andy wrote:Both the FIII and the RS have charging curcuits. They are however, very small, but they do put a small amount back into the system.

This is what I was wondering, I need some RS bits it seems..
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More **** two strokes than you can shake a **** stick at.

StephenRC45 wrote:I think Fontyyy also had probs running total loss. I guess that's why the F3, RS, NSR500's all ran the NiCd system pretty much.

Yep, 2 DNF's, one due to a rubbish battery and another due to the battery not being charged enough. For the second one Dave Reynolds (Elegy) blamed me using a trickle charger, tyre warmers, a rubbish genny, doing the trackday the day before and not putting it on charge every session, which ironically I did to test the life of a battery.
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Last edited by fontyyy on Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:02 pm; edited 1 time in total

The best thing would be to get all the rs wiring , flywheel , coils , pgm etc . Then you have all the correct stuff to play with

I have never run a total loss system, but how is this for a suggestion?:

Try running a Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery (LiFeSO4) with about twice the amp-hours of the standard battery?
OK, this is probably not a good idea if you are going to be doing long races. So not a "complete" solution I know.

Standard battery YTX4L-BS is rated at 3 amp-hours and weighs approx 2.5kg?
LiFeSO4 battery (see here for a couple of examples) is rated at 7 or 9 amp-hours and weighs approx 0.5kg

Just thinking out loud.

Neal wrote:The best thing would be to get all the rs wiring , flywheel , coils , pgm etc . Then you have all the correct stuff to play with

Yep, let me know the next PGM-II RS flywheel and stator you see for sale you let me know I've got the rest.
You also need to machine the cases to fit the stator plate, the details of what to machine are in the '88 F3 manual though if you've got the RS stator plate it's obvious.
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Last edited by fontyyy on Mon Feb 27, 2012 8:11 pm; edited 1 time in total

Why not just reinstate the charging generator and stuff? (serious question). Sounds like a massive ball-ache to me. And I don't really see what you gain from removing it TBH. What am I missing?
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Still smoking...

Nothing, Warwick!
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NSR-WORLD.COM

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wb wrote:What am I missing?

At least 2 bhp

Paul, my bike starts misfiring when the battery measures about 11.8v.
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