Aside from obvious differences; adjustable suspension, dry clutch and different transmission ratios, are there other reasons to start a track bike project with an SE over an R model? My intentions are to upgrade the suspension (opinions and reccomendations welcome), which seems to have me replacing many of the SE parts. Are there any internal engine part differences? From what I have read the cylinder/head seem to make comparable power whether they are R or SE. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I would like to plan this project out a bit before just throwing money at parts. SE's come with a much higher starting cost. I just want to make sure i am not unneccessarily spending money that could be used for upgrades. Thanks.
The different transmission ratios thing is a myth. Other than the mainshaft the R and SE/SP gearboxes are the same.
The engines are effectively identical, the R barrels are 0.2mm shorter, the R head's have that 0.2mm on them instead.
So, other than the better base suspension there is no reason to choose an SE. It really depends on what you plan on doing, if you're going to fit a new rear shock and a replace the forks then it doesn't matter. If you're going to have them serviced and sprung for your weight then the SE forks are a better starting point.
You can spend a fortune here either on fancy valve kits and/or RS/F3 or forks from other models.
Or you could just use some fresh 12.5w (mix 10w and 15w) oil, that works quite well.
Be aware the NSR disc's are smaller, if you swap to another model fork (RS/F3 or nc35 are the easy options) you'll need the larger discs.
As for the rear shock, the R unit is rubbish, the SE one is OK if serviced. One of my racebikes came with a CBR600 shock, the CBR600 model number is F3, this is NOT the F3 (FIII) race series! It looked totally stock and worked well.
You'll see some people say use an RS125 rear shock; you can do that but it doesn't clear the stock rear sub frame.
Obviously the SP wheels are slightly lighter, though as you may have difficulty sourcing 110 width decent tyres personally I'd swap the front to a 3.5" rim and use the 3" for a wet tyre.
The cheap option is the nc29/30/35 wheel (also used on some CBR600's) - it looks exactly like the NSR wheel except it's 1/2" wider and is a direct replacement. They tend to sell for decent money as they also fit the 16" wheeled FireBlade. The CBR400 nc23 wheels also fit's and is slightly lighter, but it looks odd as it's 3 spoke.
You can then run 120 width tyres and there will never be a problem.
As for the rear wheel, there's not a lot wrong with the stock item (R or SP), once again there can be problems getting 150 width decent tyres but a 160 width tyre on the rear is fine. _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
Thanks for the info. It is very helpful. My plans for the bike are to ride it while I'm living here in Japan for the next two years or so. I plan on taking it back to the States and making it my dedicated track bike. So maybe getting an SE is going to be the best starting point. Derestrict it and service/respring the suspension. This will be my first NSR, so maybe getting to know the bike before I modify it would probably be best. Thanks again.
Straight replacement,keep in mind that by doing that you're going to make the bike a bit "slow",it'll lose a bit of that airy feel that NSRs are known for.
No, it's down to the profiles. A 160 on the rear will also give you a smaller "contact patch" on the tarmac.
Some manufacturers actually list a 120 front as suitable for a 3" rim, but I've yet to ride an NSR without HRC front and rear suspension/geometry and wheels that handles well with oversized wheels/tyres. _________________ Andy.
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You either saved me £100 plus by me not buying a bigger front wheel or cost me a couple of £k on HRC suspension. Me thinks it's the former and my 21R just gets the Maxton mods on the std forks with a std 3" front wheel; Nice one
Well the NSRs are ready to roll on the track as they come out of the factory no doubt about it,try to learn the bike as it is(stock) and when you think you're driving it to its limits then either you're moving to a racer or improve your existing bike,till then,have a nice flight
mellorp wrote:
You either saved me £100 plus by me not buying a bigger front wheel or cost me a couple of £k on HRC suspension. Me thinks it's the former and my 21R just gets the Maxton mods on the std forks with a std 3" front wheel; Nice one
I'd personally say the £100 would be far better spent on the suspension or brakes, than on a 3.5" NC wheel. NSRs handle perfectly well with the standard 110/150 combination. They steer quickly, and are stable. It's easy to break Honda's good work, but not so easy to better it!
My advice on wheels is, if you're a tart (like me!), get some SP Magteks, and if you're fast, spend the [considerable] extra on the wider and lighter HRC RS250 Magteks or Marchesinis... once the suspension and geometry are set up. _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.
Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.
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