I picked up my Yahoo Japan purchase while in Tokyo last week, had it posted to my hotel. A NSR single seat that looks like RichG's Rothman's NS400.

Now I have popped it on to the existing seat frame, just for a look.

I have noticed that the front lower section seems to fit and position on the frame pretty well, however if you look at the images the seat base is high compared to stock (I think).

Also the rear under-guard from the 18 seems to be a close fit.

Looks like it sits up a little high compared to the swing-arm and tire coverage.

Never having fitted a single seat cowling, I'd like your expert opinion of the correct process to do so? Where to start what not to cut, etc.

What suggestions do you guys have?

Neil (Merry Xmas)

The problem is the NF5 and MC18 frames, whilst looking similar at a glance, are very different. The seat's always just going to fit where it touches!

The NF5 frame is probably 5 degrees or more steeper, sitting physically quite a lot lower than the NSR at the top mounting point for the rear shock. The frame is also shorter, and the swingarm longer, even though the wheelbase is almost identical! All of this will make the projected seat angle much higher, and further back than on the RS.

In short, you're just going to have to take the plunge with the saw! Take a small amount off at a time. If you want to keep the access holes at the front of the seat, then you're really going to need to hack out a small "v" (probably at the narrowest point somewhere under the seat pad), and then glass it all back together and smooth the lines out. It's not going to be a 5-minute job.

Racer38 fitted a 1993 RS seat to an R5K many years ago, which looked quite good, but even that looked long. The photo may give you an idea for yours though.

You can still see how the seat doesn't quite line up, and how it needs a section cutting out at about 5 degrees... If you cut from the corner where it intersects with the tank and frame back to just above the mounting hole, that would probably tweak it just enough. However, given the longer NSR frame, there will still always be a lot more over-hang at the rear.

A (very) quick Photoshop hack to demonstrate what I am trying to say...



Looking at it now, rather than taking a V out under the seat pad to further lower the tail/angle, maybe taking a a parallel cut out to actually shorten the seat would work. Can't be arsed to fiddle around with Photoshop again (seeing as that's not even the same seat), but I imagine you get the idea. If you mocked yours up the same, you would have an idea where it needs cutting!
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Andy.
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Thanks for the quick reply Andy.

I know Photoshop well so i'll get some good images that are square on and try to do a digitally pleasing set up to start with. I'm in no hurry, this is my hobby, but I'm a fussy bastard when it comes to aesthetics.

I'll keep a log of activity to benefit others that may wish to try the same thing.

Neil

I tried this ages ago with my '18 and wrecked brand new a seat unit so take care!

Part of the root of the problem you've got is the mc18 subframe is too high if you want to run a foam seat pad as the o.e. seat unit sits lower than the top of the subframe and the seat pad itself then sits higher.
Remember on the road bike the seat pad sits on the subframe and the bodywork just sits around it slightly lower effectively doing nothing.
Looking at the Tyga MC18 "GP style" seat unit and a real GP seat unit you can see the issue all to clearly. Fit the GP seat unit onto the road sub frame and the seat is always going to be too high by quite a bit.

I think you might find that it's impossible to retain the stock subframe, use a "race" seat and get everything in line. To get it looking right you may either need a new subframe or some very careful cutting to let you run the o.e. seat pad.

I'm not suggesting you do so, but imagine if you cut out the section of the seat unit you've got that's covered in foam. It could then sit a lot more correctly.

It's worth anyone with a mc21 or mc28 who wants to try this noting that the early fairings are far too narrow. You can't get the seat unit on at all (fuel tank is too wide) and the front bodywork is even worse.
The later ones fit quite well and the easy fix for the seat problem is a Tyga subframe and a couple of L shape brackets for the mounts.
Though I'm not really a big fan of that shape any more, which is odd, I used to really like it. I think I'll go back to stock shape for the 2013 season.
or just stick with the RVF
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