Bit of a noob question so be gentle please. Can parts from say NX5 or NXA be used in my MC18 engine? If so what parts and is there any real advantage in mixing and matching the parts.
If anything it will be NF5 parts, not the later stuff,i believe fontyyy fitted nf5 barrels and pistons to one of his projects, so he will the man to give you the lowdown on that. _________________ Proud Father of , 05 ktm 400exc supermoto 2018 honda crf rx supermoto
Some RS parts can be made to fit, but it's really not the way to go, and certainly NOT a quick, cheap, and easy way to power for an NSR. As Les says, it's mostly NF5 parts that you can use, if you really want to.
You are better off having NSR parts modified. 65hp with a really strong mid-range is easily achievable, 70hp is possible (retaining many of the standard parts, if you're willing to pay for the work!), and up to 75hp if you go the full F-III route and want to rebuild it as often as an RS. A 75hp F-III NSR will kick the ass out of an NF5's bottom-end and mid-range though, but the RS does have the potential for a little more top-end, but not by much. The RSs strengths are the hand-built quality, the quality of the cycle parts (the suspension and brakes are wonderful!), and it's low weight. That all adds up to a more superior bike... on the track, in the right hands.
There's very little that makes an NF5 RS250 motor better than an NSR though. _________________ Andy.
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Cheers guys for the answers, I had often wondered if it was worth the trouble. I got offered a RSI crank a while back and wondered if I should have gone for it but it appears I made the right choice and passed.
The cranks are probably one of the least compatible parts (that look like they should be compatible)! Good decision! _________________ Andy.
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So, save me some time Andy from searching for answers please.
What is the FIII route and what model of NSR does it apply to?
What do you think the comparison of an NXA to an NSR FIII is?
My main interest is that i dont want to put too many miles on my NXA BUT .... I am totally in love with my two strokes again and my Blade really is just sitting there in the garage unloved and unused nowdays. It's only a back up for if the RS lets me down on the first session of a trackday that i have paid £160 for, only then to go to waste when the RS is being stripped in the pit garage ... and it has done that twice so far with broken reeds ....
That said, i do use the Blade to bed myself into the track in the morning for a couple of sessions too ..... I guess i could do the same with one of those FIII thingies and i am also guessing they are cheaper to run than an RS????????
The NXA (and to a degree, an NX5) is a whole different kettle of fish to an NSR (and to that same degree, an NF5). The NXA has the potential to put 20hp on top of the best MC21 F-III.
Where all the RSs really score, as I've already pointed out, is in the chassis department.
F-III kits were available for the MC16, MC18s, and MC21. Naturally the MC21 is the most comprehensive, and a well prepared and ridden one will hassle an RS (NF5 and NX5) all day long. That said, to achieve RS performance, in the simplest of terms, you are basically turning an NSR into an RS*, and in doing so you will increase its service levels to that of the RS! F-III parts are extremely difficult and expensive to source now, and to buy or build a full-spec one will easily cost as much as buying an NX5 these days.
In my opinion, a better route is to run an MC21 in SS400 spec. Careful preparation will see the bike down to around 115kg and anywhere from 65~70hp, depending on budget and requirements, and will be noticeably cheaper to run and maintain... especially if you are using it as a warm-up/backup bike at track days.
Without question, the MC21 is the all-round best model to run. Best chassis, arguably the best motor, readily available chassis and engine parts, relatively cheap initial purchase price for a base to start from, and easily derestricted with a free wire-splice!
*An MC21 F-III parts book contains an HRC replacement part for virtually every standard NSR part, bar the nuts, bolts, and bearings! Seriously, it's a complete bike from the wheels up! Oh, the fuel tank and seat unit are standard on the MC21! (I do have an alloy MC18 HRC tank!) _________________ Andy.
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Simono, what Andy said is completly right, iam in the same boat with my NF5,and that is even harder to source parts for than an NXA, I always take the RS and my MC21 to a trackday,and i always enjoy riding the 21 more than the RS,the 21 is mildly modified with just a kit loom,jet kit,stuffers,rear head conversion,set of pipes and some brembo calipers,plus devoid of all road gear,and its a hoot to ride for an old fart like me.So what iam trying to say is, get yourself a nice sorted 21,you will probably enjoy it more than the blade,and the NXA will become the back up without wearing it out. Cheers Les _________________ Proud Father of , 05 ktm 400exc supermoto 2018 honda crf rx supermoto
Simon, You'll have to ask Andy Muse for a go on his MC21 F-III. I'm sure he'll be at the next Donington day.
They are expensive to run, as much as an RS really, and cost as much to buy as well though. A kitted none F-III NSR would maybe be a better option while still having the 2 stroke buzz. _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
For some reason the 28 doesn't seem to have the appeal of the 21 for a trackday tool. Have a word with jonnymac on this forum, he has a couple of 21,s for sale that would make ideal track weapons. _________________ Proud Father of , 05 ktm 400exc supermoto 2018 honda crf rx supermoto
What extra you spend on the initial purchase of most MC28s will more than pay for tuning work on an MC21. Delimiting (not tuning!) an MC21 is free... delimiting an MC28 to a similar level is going to cost you at least £500... or more. That's probably £1500 spent already, just to get yourself to the (engine) performance level of an MC21. Let's not mention the flexi swingarm, eh?!
That's just for starters! Hence why I already said "Without question, the MC21 is the all-round best model to run. Best chassis, arguably the best motor, readily available chassis and engine parts, relatively cheap initial purchase price for a base to start from, and easily derestricted with a free wire-splice!"
There's no mention of the MC28 in my previous post because, as much as it hurts owners to hear it, it's irrelevant to this topic! _________________ Andy.
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You're welcome to vote MC28, of course. But the truth of the matter is it's not a cost-effective track bike for the highest percentage of people. Unless you have money to waste, or you are lucky to find one very cheap, that someone has already spend their good money on, then it's just far too expensive. When answering questions such as this, it must be looked at realistically and subjectively. Something many forget.
Realistically, the MC18 is too old and not as well developed chassis-wise. While the motor and ignition are good, you are looking at a base bike that's at least 24 years old... with an 18" back wheel, and a twitchy chassis! The MC28 is too expensive to buy initially, and tuning requires a £300+ HRC card and race chambers before you even start to get somewhere close to a stock MC18 or MC21! The MC21 is the sensible cost-effective answer. Simple.
You have to put personal preferences aside, and working with NSRs for almost 20 years, I think it gives me a good idea now of what's suitable for a given purpose. _________________ Andy.
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i liked the twitchy nature of my old mc18 but i have to jump on board the 21 bandwagon though but i must admit,from the money and effort ive thrown at my nsr,i could have just bought another rs _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
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but i have to jump on board the 21 bandwagon though