So I've got my new MC28 completely stripped down now. It's got about 20 years of accumulated grease and dirt built up on it. I've noticed a lot of people do the full strip down and clean on this site with some great results. Was hoping someone might have some recommendations for the best way to clean frame / motor / swingarm so it comes up looking good without having to resort to paying for hydroblasting etc?
I'm sorry to say there is no easy way to do this, plenty of hard work and a large tub of elbow grease required.
Over the years I have tried various ways of cleaning frames and engines and following works best for me.
You will need a cleaning fluid, something like Muc-off/Jizer/WD-40/Duck Oil.
Spray the cleaning fluid of your choice on the frame/swingarm and start cleaning. I use an old / wife's toothbrush to scrub the muck out of the nooks and crannies.
Another favourite of mine is a rag wrapped a round a small flat screwdriver for cleaning out hard to get areas, thought you have to be careful the screwdriver does not end up poking through the rag and scratching you frame/engine!
Wipe of all the excess cleaning fluid. I would then give the frame and swingarm a covering of alloy wheel cleaner to get rid of the last remnants of muck etc. and finally wash this off with water.
Dry of the frame etc. I would then buff them up with some car/bike/furniture polish to finish the frame and swingarm of nicely.
Luckily NSR frames and swingarms (Are MC28 swingarms just cast?) are hard anodised as standard so they clean up really well.
Remember, tape over or plug the bearings in the swingarm / frame with rags etc! Though after 20 years, unless the bearings are super smooth I would be replacing them.
If you are unlucky enough to have a frame that has had the anodising stripped off, I would still do the same as above but finish of the frame using Scotchbrite pads.
In my opinion, you do not want to have to have the frame blasted unless it is in very poor condition.
I would start of with a red/burgundy coloured pad and finish off with a light grey coloured pad.
Do this by hand keeping the 'grain' running in the same direction, i.e. running along the length of the frame spars. This is not so important on the cast sections of the frame or swingarm.
Again, cover the frame with alloy wheel cleaner and wash off.
Finally, give the frame a light polish with any car/bike polish. This will give the frame a clean look, but not too shiny.
For the engine, it's much the same as above, although I don't use the alloy wheel cleaner. I have been know to polish the crankcases though...
Strip of as much of the ancillaries of the engine as you can and clean them separately.
Remember to tape over or plug the exhaust ports and carb rubbers with rags!
It will be worth the effort in the long run! In my opinion there is nothing worse than a bike with shiny bodywork and a manky engine/frame/running gear!
gallon of mineral spirits and a tooth brush, followed up with a can of WD40 and a rag. Then another can of contact cleaner and a clean rag to finish it all off.
Much appreciate your advice guys. I've noticed in the past that contact cleaner does seem to shift a lot of built in grime. I used to use it to remove grease from my hands many years ago until someone made me aware of how bad it was for you. I also read on the engine rebuild section about the "soup" recipe put forward from Tyga. Any thoughts on that one? The frame and swingarm look to be in pretty good condition and I don't want to remove the anodising as Sennidott warns off. Any issues with using a commercial degreaser? In the past I've used this and you seem to get a residue which is hard to remove.
The anodising is rock hard... unless you take coarse abrasives to it, you won't be removing it any time soon! Strong alloy wheel cleaners could stain anodising if left in contact with it for too long, so always check the label to see the maximum exposure time.
Soup will kill rubber seals and components rather quickly, if left in contact with them for a long time, but it's still a very effective cleaner. It's not exactly environmentally friendly though! _________________ Andy.
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I had the engine and barrels vapour blasted on my RGV this brings them up like new the casing i had powder coated which looks really good
The swing arm I had re anodised which looked pretty good, the plated/powder guy did not want to do the frame it is not easy getting the original finish on jap bikes ...
Its not a cheap process but the results are well worht it ..
I can email some pics if you want to see the results ??
Remember to treat anything you vapour blast, as it leaves the surface very susceptible to future corrosion and/or staining. ACF-50 is generally the weapon of choice. I'd use it after using alloy wheel cleaner, too.
Powder coating, in my opinion, just looks cheap and 80's on 2-stroke engines. _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.
Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.
That would be great thanks Paul. I'm leaning toward getting the engine vapour blasted and hand cleaning the frame / swingarm. I'll PM you my email. Just out of interest, what sort of money was the Vapour Blasting? That's a good suggestion about the ACF-50 too thanks Andy. With the Vapour Blasting, I imagine the engine will need to be completely disassembled or the media will get in everywhere? Well if I do that, may as well do a full rebuild....... Dollars, dollars and more dollars ha ha. Actually considering the age of the bike I would feel a lot better having a new crank and top end in it and I'd like to run my 030 card with confidence too.
i can vouch for the vapour blasting media getting into every tiny place,just dont ask how i now know _________________ ive seen more tarts than mr kipling
That's interesting regarding the media comment Andy. Here in Aus, the guys who do the Hydroblasting (and there aren't a lot) tell me that it is water / vapour but does contain a media. Perhaps the Vapour blasting process is a different beast? The guy I have been talking to assures me that the Hydroblasting won't affect machined surface tolerances / bearing tolerances etc but will definitely mess up seals and bearings.
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