Hi guys,

I'm looking to remove and replace the flywheel on my engine, but I am a little bit hesitant to do so as I want to ensure the crank stays true.

The tech section says to lock the rods to jam the crank so that the bolt can be loosened/removed. Is this ok for the crank? It worked well on my broken engine, but I wasn't worried about the crank for that one....

Cheers for any help.

I used that technique when stripping and rebuilding my engine.... had no problems... all I would say is be gentle with the torque wrench, no jerking, just a gentle increase in pressure until you achieve the required torque.

Have a look at the bottom of this page.

http://tech.nsr-world.com/nsr250/mc21/mc21-crank-specifications.php

Genuine Honda flywheel pullers for the NSR can be purchased though the marketplace if you required one.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

StephenRC45 wrote:Have a look at the bottom of this page.

http://tech.nsr-world.com/nsr250/mc21/mc21-crank-specifications.php

Genuine Honda flywheel pullers for the NSR can be purchased though the marketplace if you required one.

Cheers Stephen,

I actually have the flywheel puller, which is very effective. I was more referring to the initial loosening of the main bolt. It seems that this puts a lot of pressure on the crank, and I was wondering if the potential of damage could be removed/lessened.

Is a flywheel holder the solution?

You can do it without a flywheel holder and you might not effect your crank's truing.

can, might, should ... you never know.

To be on the safe side, use a metal bar with 2 screws through it as flywheel holder. There is a different thread where we did some torque/load calculations.

And: it's not only the crank that MIGHT suffer, also the conrod small ends MIGHT suffer from the pointy load.

There is a reason why Honda uses a flywheel holder and the tool which blocks the gear on the RHS to remove that nut.

gepe wrote:You can do it without a flywheel holder and you might not effect your crank's truing.

can, might, should ... you never know.

To be on the safe side, use a metal bar with 2 screws through it as flywheel holder. There is a different thread where we did some torque/load calculations.

And: it's not only the crank that MIGHT suffer, also the conrod small ends MIGHT suffer from the pointy load.

There is a reason why Honda uses a flywheel holder and the tool which blocks the gear on the RHS to remove that nut.

Thanks for the advice. A flywheel holder will be easy to make so will do that. What about the gear holder your're referring to, what does that look like?