Hi,

Does anyone have a MC21 PGM III for sale or know where I can get one.

I have just been told by the RaceLab man in Greece that he cannot repair mine.

Perhaps someone can help me as to reasons why it went belly up.

The bike has recently had a new barrel and piston together with RC valve pulley wheel.

I have to confess to not paying too much attention to the RC valve setup. I simply re connected the cables to the new pulley wheel on the side of the barrel and off I went.

Would this have been a contributing factor to blowing the PGM III? If I source a new one I don't want to blow that one!

ANY help greatly appreciated.

you were talking to my mate paul tonight at squires
he asked me if i had a pgm 3 box to sell but he couldnt find you to tell you i did
i got it from japan for £250
where are you located im at wakefield

I had mine blow up because my flipping rectifier packed up and put 17.6 volts through my pgm111 I now have a volt meter on the nsr and have 3working pgm111(only one on the Bike ) from all over the world cost my loads but now very had to come by

I had mine blow up because my flipping rectifier packed up and put 17.6 volts through my pgm111 I now have a volt meter on the nsr and have 3working pgm111(only one on the Bike ) from all over the world cost my loads but now very had to come by

Managed to get a replacement PGMIII today but I am scared I might fry this one.
Thanks for the heads up - I'll check the rectifier.

marcus127 wrote:I had mine blow up because my flipping rectifier packed up and put 17.6 volts through my pgm111 I now have a volt meter on the nsr and have 3working pgm111(only one on the Bike ) from all over the world cost my loads but now very had to come by

mal's bike blew a few fuses before the box went !
check everything first mal as you dont want to damage another
how can you test a reg rec without the bike running ? or cant you ?

I tried I few things with the volt meter but came to nothing I had to start the Bike up with the volt meter on it and risk it I'm not very good with electrics it showed 17.6 and turn it off right away changed the rec and was fine then

First things first, and I cannot stress this enough, you MUST ensure the RC Valves move freely, and are set up correctly. RC Valve neglect is, without doubt, the biggest killer of PGM's.

This also includes ensuring that both valves are trying to turn the same way! This may sound obvious, but scarily we've seen more than one NSR with the RC Valves set up fighting each other... one trying to open, while the other is trying to close!

However, if you're blowing fuses, then I would initially expect there to be a short in the harness of some sort. In 25 years I've never personally experienced a blown fuse on an NSR with a good condition wiring harness. It's generally only when people start to cut into them (stripping away lights, shortening/extending sections/splicing in delimiters etc.) that the harnesses start to cause problems. Even when my stator coil shorted and burnt out (a pulser coil mounting bolt vibrated loose, and flipped in behind the flywheel), or the time my reg/rec died, and I managed to limp several miles home, it never blew fuses or killed the PGM-III.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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I had a rectifier cook my battery, it really went fat, but didn't burn the PGMIII even at 17 volts.

On the other hand, did a PGMIII on the other bike, burn the RC valve transistors and part of the circuit board, in the PGMIII, with no apparent reason. Everything ran correctly and freely and still does with the new PGM.

In non of the cases did a fuse blow.

Mal Harding wrote:
I have just been told by the RaceLab man in Greece that he cannot repair mine.

Perhaps someone can help me as to reasons why it went belly up.

Hi Malcolm.
As per our e-mails, your PGMIII had issues with a critical (and non repairable) part on the ignition side and the rc valve section was not relevant to that. Sorry, I may haven't cleared that enough.
I cannot know if this was caused by your wiring loom or the PGM itself. If this happens again on your spare PGM unit, I find it kind of unlikely to cause any problems except if you insist on renewing the blown fuses and hope the problem goes away. If the first fuse goes off, do not change it, stop and inspect the rest of the electrics. Also use a fuse of the correct amperage or even better (and for doing the testing only), a fuse of slightly lower amperage.
Good luck with your bike and let me know how it goes.
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2t-racelab.com