Hey everyone... Newby ere
Ive just bought a MC18 with a MC21 SP Engine and apparently race tune ECU? Unfortunatley this is my first 2 stroke and i dont know whats normal and whats not ..
My Qs n probs are:
Hard starting -- if its been started once that day it will start almost first kick every time, but the first start is a B@!CH 25-30 kicks give up, come back try again till eventually she just cracks into life. Ive replaced the fuel lines from the tank and the inline filter as it was clogged with oil ( get to that later) also the filter was positioned horizontally and now where near filling so ive positioned it vertiaclly to assist with gravity feed.
Then ive cleaned the carbs (float bowls had some crusty crap) float needles seemed good but gave them a squirt. ALso performed a compression test and got about 110psi on each from cold.
I had also replaced the spark plugs the day before and found they are oil foiled already?
When i bought the bike, the guy said he always puts a splash of oil in the tank and i should do the same - my concern is 2 things
1) I think the extra oil is the starting problem as its fouling the plugs?
2) the oil in the reservoir is being used, but its dirty - ive topped it up twice already so i know what im putting in is good but if its only drawing what it needs why would it be getting dirty? - is this the reason why hes telling to make sure i put some in the tank?
Other smaller issues - the back break switch doewsnt have a spring on it so isnt working and i can only find a spring for a MC21 will this fit?
The Neutral light doesnt work - the wire from the gearbox loops around and goes back into the gearbox? -- i know its an MC21 engine but surely i should still be able to get the Neutral light to work with the MC18 dash? If the switch is the problem can i get a new one?
Hi Mate
Welcome to the forum .Always good to get more aussies here .
How does it run once started ? They do need a good battery to start .
Could be crankseals .
With your oil tank i would pull them of clean them out and fill back up . I run the oil injection on my bike and don`t put any oil in the tank if the pump works that is all that is needed .
You would be able to use a mc21 brake light spring
With your netral light I take it has got the mc18 wiring with pgm1 or pgm2 ?
the mc21 has a gear possition sensor and the mc18 has a neutral switch you should be able to find the neutral wire in the possition sensor and tap into the netral wire in the loom .
Seems odd that your injector oil is dirtying. I'd be concerned, perhaps there is a leak. Have you checked your gearbox oil lately to see if it's overflowing with two stoke oil?
I think the new oil is mixing with old oil there is not any other way for the oil to get dirty .
If the seal on the pump had droped that pumps 2stoke oil into gearbox won`t pump gearbox oil into oil containers
Yes, it'd be unlikely that the gearbox oil would be blowing back up in to the oil bottle. Though it's very unlikely that the oil would be dirtying itself in the first place, so it'd definitely be worth a look to see if the gearbox oil was overflowing.
Ill check my gearbox oil, n flush out the 2 stroke oil n replace with all new - do i need to bleed it some how or can i just fill the reservoir n let the pump do the rest. (Thinking the best way would be undo the hose that connects the 2 tanks and drain them both at the same time - could be messy tho hmmm )
Seems so far ive fixed the hard starting issue, will know tomorrow morning i guess. Pretty sure the extra oil in tank has been the problem, evrything from the fuel filter, carbs, n fouling the plugs. Ive drained the tank as well n replaced with just fuel n she started straight away.
Great news on the spring and neutral light cheers guys
ALso where in AU are you? If in Perth gimme a shout and we can tee up a ride
If you disconnect the hoses that go from the pump to the intake manifold it is recommended that you bleed the system prior to running the bike. There are two ways to do this.
1. Turning the pump by hand until oil comes out of the end of the pipes that connects to the manifold. Connect them and go.
2. Mixing up a small quantity of two stoke oil/fuel and, with the tank off, funnel it in to the fuel line and start the bike. Start the bike and while it is running open the pump to full rich until you see that there is extra smoke coming from both pipes. Keep it running for a few minutes to be sure.
In each case, make sure when you start the bike with the tank back on that there is smoke coming out of each cylinder.
Make sure you're using a good fully synthetic oil. I'm using Castrol TTS Power. 4 litres of fully synthetic for $70 is hard to beat!
Great advice cheers mate!! .. Sounds pretty easy, will give it a go tomorrow soon as i can get hold of some new 2 stroke oil. I was originally going to use Motul but the one you mentioned sounds like the go .. is there much difference in 2 stroke oil?
Anyone got any other ideas why my oil looks so bad? It looks like used 4 stroke oil.
There shouldn't be much difference in the oils. Not enough to warrant the premium that Motul and Motorex etc. have over the Castrol. Just make sure it's fully synthetic, is compatible with oil injection (most are except castor oils) and has a high SAE rating. The Castrol TTS Power is a good oil, a lot of us run it in our NSRs.
Tell us about Barbagallo Raceway !
Some oils are different colours and when mixed they will go dark , eg red oil and blue oil when mixed go darker . Could this be it ?
the easy way is to run a litre of pre-mix fuel in the tank and run the bike . Or pull the pump of and hook a drill onto the shaft and spin till oil comes out thay is safe way
All done!!! WOW! What a difference, I swear there's more power a lot more power.
The carb clean yesterday and changing the fuel appeared to give much smoother midrange but the power band wasn't anything special .. I put that down to mostly the fuel I'm using to flush the tank (91 octane) but after cleaning out the tanks tubing and pump and refilling with TTS, after a warm up to clear out some of the old sh*t the improvement is huge! Well worth doing
The exhaust tips are still dripping with excess oil so I assume the expansion chambers and power valve are swimming too - so probably be a good couple hundred ks to really get the sh*t out but already even on 91 the bike has more power every where.
Couldn't figure out the hand pump idea - I twisted the throttle 100 times to no effect so ended up connecting the manifold tubes back to the pump, kicked over n took her for a gentle 2 min ride. Stopped but continued idling pulled one tube of the pump and gave a squirt on the throttle and we struck blue oil
Just want to monitor the oil reservoir over the next couple of days as the excess oil burns off to ensure everything is running as it should - then I'll double check the plugs to ensure they are still sweet, fill her up with some decent juice n find some decent twisties
Oh ... One more Q, I'm almost 90kg and the back end feels like it's set pretty light anyone know a good setting?
I hope you mae sure it was smoking as soon as you started it. Always warm a two stroke before riding. Unless I'm at the top of a long hill I don't ride till I see 60C.
Rider sag should be set to about 30 mm, static about 10 mm on a road bike. If you can't get your preload around those figures you'll have to respring. _________________ MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.
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