When I bought my nsr, the seller said he'd just had the shock rebuilt and charged with nitrogen recently. He told me that if you are able to press down the metal bit on the end of the cannister then it needs rebuilding and/or recharging. I am unfortumately able to press it down sp this leads me to reason the nitrogen has gone back in to the atmosphere.

Should I just recharge it or have it rebuilt so it hopefully retains the gas fpr more than a few years?

Or get an Ohlins which is what I whould do if someone wanted to sell me one...
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

I'd check out the prices for each solution and decide on the best course for you.
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

to get my front forks rebuilt, shock regassed and new line to the reservoir and a few other bits cost me under $400. I would be sitting down when you get the price for an ohlins

Put a second hand Ohlins on my Ducati, cost about $500. The adjustable ride height alone was well worth it, you won't believe how it improved the handling and makes dropping in to a corner so much quicker and easier. I don't think the NSR250 need adjustable ride height, nor do I think the Ohlins would have that for the NSR, but it would be worthwhile netherless.

My HRC shock is set at maximum ride height (and the forks dropped slightly). Makes a definite and worthwhile difference.

The MC21 has the best geometry of all the NSR250's, but it can still be improved.

MC18's fitted with HRC linkages are a world apart from stockers. All NSR road bikes are considerably softer than they should be!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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Thanks for the info, Andy.

How far do you have the front dropped? I don't think mine are flush right now, so I don't know how much further they can be dropped.

I have HRC USD forks now, so my setting would mean nothing to you.

With the SP forks I ran them 10mm through the triples.

With the HRC RWU forks, they were also 10mm through the clamps, but those forks are not only shorter than SP forks, but the top triple is also a very pronounced gull-shape, so once again the number is probably pretty meaningless.

The HRC RWU forks scrubbed front tyres out really quickly, but it was absolutely planted! The problem was that under really really hard braking, you could just kiss the underside of the nose fairing with the front fender. I never got round to sorting it as I went to the USD's before I had the chance, but dropping the triples definitely suits me.

All stokers just steer far too slow in my opinion.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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i'm with andy,i wanted my 250's to steer like my little honda gp rs 125
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

Anyone elses settings are meaningless really. Set the bike up to steer how YOU like it. I had my forks poking waaaay up through the forks and it turned so fast it scared me - felt unstable. So I went back to flush and over the course of a trackday raised them up a couple mm at a time until I got to the point where it was the best combination of stable and nible for MY liking.

Several things which affect it:

Your weight
Your riding style
Tyre pressures
Tyre make / model
Fork spring rate & oil weight
Rear shock setting
Track or road riding

And several more I'm sure. Just trying to say that there's so many variables that taking settings from one to another isn't really much use.
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball