Gavin at Jap4 has a great deal on a limited run of mild steel TYGA pipes in the Members section, in case anyone missed it.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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cheap price that but how will the mild steel compare to the stainless as regards to rusting?
are they coated?
i have always liked the gp style but...
do the gp style fit on with no mods to the bodywork?
also do the gp pipes give less performance than standard front pipes?

That is a good price, with ally cans and Ti members discount thats £279 posted!
According to Tyga they are clear coated.

GrantA wrote:cheap price that but how will the mild steel compare to the stainless as regards to rusting?
are they coated?
i have always liked the gp style but...
do the gp style fit on with no mods to the bodywork?
also do the gp pipes give less performance than standard front pipes?

According to one of the Tyga projects, the GP style chambers gave slightly more than the normal side by side Tyga pipes.
I personally like the staggered side by side pipes over the RGV-alike GP pipes.

I`ve been wanting Tyga to do the NSR pipes in mild steel for a while now. Think a visit to Gavin`s will be on the cards soon!

cheap price that but how will the mild steel compare to the stainless as regards to rusting?
are they coated?
i have always liked the gp style but...
do the gp style fit on with no mods to the bodywork?
also do the gp pipes give less performance than standard front pipes?

The chambers are designed to give clearance to the swing arm and stock footpeg hangers as well as work with our Tyga Performance step kit STAA-0002. The stock bodywork does not need to be cut, unlike when used with some other manufacturer's chambers. (though repositioning of rear lower cowling down by 25mm is recommended)

pipes come clear coated for protection

ordered mine. set of gp pipes.

all shipped out today for you so should arrive on monday

gavin jap4 wrote:all shipped out today for you so should arrive on monday

nice.

Myself and a friend recently fitted TYGA SS chambers to our bikes and we both had to slightly cut our fairings to get them to fit properly.

You can actually get TYGA pipes to clear the bodywork without cutting, but it takes some jiggling. You need to space one side out a little, and drop it down about 20mm I seem to recall.

You can certainly fit them without cutting the bodywork though.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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i am Glad they will fit without cutting as i dont mind a little jiggling but would not want to cut the fairing.
i will let you know how they fit when i have had chance to get them on.

I think TYGA used to have a fitting guide on their site before, and Paul did tell me a long time ago they were going to include fitting advice in with the pipes, but it sounds like that idea got forgotten over time.

I'm sure a PM to Matt@TYGA would get you the information needed, although I am positive he's already posted all about it on the Forum before.

Please don't just PM Matt with general pipe questions unless you have TYGA's though... I've seen some of the e-mails and questions he gets about non-TYGA products (mind you, I get my fair share of rubbish myself! ) and wading through it all is exceptionally time consuming and only prevents him from spending time productively!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

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Andy wrote:I think TYGA used to have a fitting guide on their site before, and Paul did tell me a long time ago they were going to include fitting advice in with the pipes, but it sounds like that idea got forgotten over time.

I'm sure a PM to Matt@TYGA would get you the information needed, although I am positive he's already posted all about it on the Forum before.

Please don't just PM Matt with general pipe questions unless you have TYGA's though... I've seen some of the e-mails and questions he gets about non-TYGA products (mind you, I get my fair share of rubbish myself! ) and wading through it all is exceptionally time consuming and only prevents him from spending time productively!

hopefully he might read this thread and give us some input about fitting.
if not if i get any problems i will send a PM for some advice.

Andy i might be contacting you in the near future about the price for some port optimisation work from nsr-world. thats next on my list along with a top end overhaul.

No, I haven't read this thread

The pipes will go on without cutting the bodywork.

Without changing our pipe's dimensions we really can't fit them without at least a little interference, and found that on one of the bikes we kept the left side lower in the original mounting position, but the right side lower needed spacing out about 5mm and dropping about 20mm. Another bike needed this spacing on both left and right lowers.

Strange that they should be so different, but I've seen so many differences in other aspects, so I guess it just depends on if all the production tolerances work for you or against you.

Try to keep the spacing as minimal as possible to retain ground clearance. However, it's unlikely that you'll suffer touch down issues unless you're on the race track. 3~4mm clearance seems to be adequate.

Moons ago when I rode the MC28, Harc-Pro gave me support and their pipes required quite a chunk cutting off the lower right side cowl to get good fitment. Upon asking they just told me that that's how it was.

I've tried as best I can to get the pipes as inboard as possible without compromising design, and this is the best I can come up with using the current spec.

One way around it is we could make the pipes fit the fairing, but then you guys might not be so keen on the idea of pipes that fit, compared to pipes that work. Well, that's my theory and I'm sticking to it.

In contrast, our TYGA bodywork is designed around the pipes.

What I found worked was to use a pice of wooden batten (about an inch by half inch) with one end screwed to the frame and the other screwed to the fairing.

From memory it was about an inch and a half long...
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