I'm in the process of doing the head conversion on the front cylinder.
I need to replace the short cylinder bolt. Any tips on how to get that bolt out? It's all rusted so it doesn't look like it wants to come off easily.
Screw two nuts onto the stud. Tighten them together, (against each other).
Then use the lower nut, (nearest to the cylinder) to put your spanner on & undo the stud.
Like Fenton says, some kind of penetrating oil left to soak in for a couple of hours before will always help.
You can use this method to instal the new stud. You have to screw the new stud in using the top nut this time though.
I`ve used it loads of times after my Dad told me how to do it. Works a treat!
There`s no messing about with horrible mole-grips & the like! Doesn`t damage the stud either.
Of course, if it`s really stubborn, then you may have to use the two nuts & mole-grips together!
Last edited by Chester362 on Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:06 pm; edited 3 times in total
try and get a wire brush on the thread first,get some of the crap off.for the nut nearest rc valve shaft i ground a 12mm ring spanner [not to much though] down just enough to fit.
beakergixer750cc wrote:try and get a wire brush on the thread first,get some of the crap off.for the nut nearest rc valve shaft i ground a 12mm ring spanner [not to much though] down just enough to fit.
I think he`s talking about the head studs, not the cylinder ones?
if it`s really stubborn, then you may have to use the two nuts & mole-grips together!
Carefull, they might break! I had a cylinder where one of the studs broke, when I got some of the others out, it looked like there had been water seeping down along the stud, so they were rusted in the space furthest down the hole, thus making the stud diameter bigger furthest down.
I don't know if any heat or WD40 would help in that situation, but there are still two stuck, so I'm bathing them in WD40 for a month, then I'll try one with WD40 and a wrench and one with heat WD40 and a wrench.
When reinstalling, just turn them in handtight and then torque them when the head is installed.
There is torque data for the studs, but only torque the nuts on the studs, with the head installed. If you torque the studs alone, they will screw down in the hole with the part without thread (that is wider than the threaded part) and crack the cylinder around the stud holes. (Don't ask ) _________________ Poul
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beakergixer750cc wrote:sparky mate what do you want to remove?cylinder aint got any bolts only nuts or studs.
No one likes a smart guy, we all know what the boy means*
*Sparky, you are talking about a stud seemingly seized in the head aren't you?
And yes two nuts, hold the top one still (even though you think it's tight, maybe let the spanner "lock" onto another stud) and try to further tighten up the bottom one, something has got to give and threading the stud or breaking another stud are both quite unlikely.
Mine (the one you got Andy) was mega stuck in, no matter how tight I locked them togeather they still turned on the stud, the trick above worked by coincidence, I'd just left the other spanner there.
pbekkerh wrote:torque
What is this "torque" is speak of? _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
Use two cylinder head "flange" nuts, as the increased area of the flanged side allows more force to be applied when tightening them together. You need to get them tight to prevent both bolts from winding back up the stud together! _________________ Andy.
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Of course they actually do make proper tools for doing the job. You can get a dtud remover from sears for about $20. A real stud remover set from Snap-on, which is a much better solution, costs about $250 for the set (I think). _________________ james
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how about a bit of loctite on the nuts?also make sure nut flats are in good condition,or if you can take cylinder off remove rest of the studs stick the offending stud tight in a vice[i'd take the nuts off first to give more purchase on the stud] and twist cylinder,ive never tried this just an idea that might work.
no disrespect to you in last post bruvva
The proper tool, as James suggests, is the best way to go, but the "two nut" trick is fine for the majority of situations.
Thread-lock isn't (in my experience) necessary on the two flange nuts. If the stud is that tight, then you should be looking at a more effective solution anyway. _________________ Andy.
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Two M8 flange nuts with flanges together tightened on the offending stud. Use a quality ring spanner on the underside nut and an 8 point socket on the top. Tighten them up together as much as you dare!
Put on ya Mum's oven gloves, grab a heat gun and warm up the aluminium around the stud until it's too hot to touch (bare fingers). Don't use a naked flame. Quietly steal the wife's top brand hair dryer if you haven't got a heat gun and use it on full heat setting. If it breaks then just throw it back in the drawer and don't say a word.
When it's nice and hot get ready to undo the stud (turn anticlockwise), but first you want to give the head of the stud a good crack with the hammer Don't be a wimp, but not a full arm swing pile driver whack either.
Undo the stud and then phone all your mates and ask what the fuss is about.
If it really is a stubborn bugger then just warm up again and repeat the last step. It will come out.
Even if you have a prper stud remover it's still best to warm the aluminium and use the hammer technique. The shock helps break up any corrosion holding it firm.
I can't believe it, the stud won't budge. tried everything. I clamped the stud to a vice and it started moving then seized up. spent 3 hours on it. Thanks for the help. I give up, gonna bring it to the shop.
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) 
Don't be a wimp, but not a full arm swing pile driver whack either.
