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Crankshaft (part 6)


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j911brick

 
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Crankshaft (part 6)

Tue Feb 13, 2007 12:07 am » Post: #1 » Download Post

I get a call from Falicon today: they FINALLY have my crank done. Total cost $600+. For those that have not been following this, that is $600 to rebuild a NEW crank. So what did I get for $600? Improved oiling(?), dynamic balancing, welded pins, micro polish, truing, magnaflux, and hopefully some more stuff I'm clueless about. So now I have about $1,400 into this crank!
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vincbr900

 
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Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:16 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

how long did it take?

I would take some pictures if I were you so you can show people and tell them how trick it is, else you cant normally see it! Post them here too...
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Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:29 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post

You wanna see trick?

This is trick Wink


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j911brick

 
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Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:55 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

They had the crank for about two months (or more), but it probably only took a couple days to do the actual work. I suspect that most of what they did is not even visible.
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j911brick

 
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Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:57 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

StephenRC45 wrote:You wanna see trick?

This is trick Wink
]
What's so trick?
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Wed Feb 14, 2007 12:22 am » Post: #6 » Download Post

Thats a very rare HRC crank in a very rare set of HRC crank cases Rolling Eyes

Thats the only picture I'm going to post though lol
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Matt@TYGA
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Wed Feb 14, 2007 1:40 am » Post: #7 » Download Post

I can see that there's some horses missing from that set of very rare HRC F3 crank cases.
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Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:14 am » Post: #8 » Download Post

Yeah I know Matt, but I dont like resin and I dont want to get in there cutting bits out of such a nice set of cases. Maybe I need to build another motor.
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Wed Feb 14, 2007 9:04 am » Post: #9 » Download Post

Well Steve, we can discuss it over juice, but I definitely think you need to build another motor. Can never have too many.

I do have to say though that peeking into F3 cases, with that rather cheeky F3 crank, is just bliss. Much more satisfying than looking at those normal, rusty old standard cranks. "Trick", just doesn't really do it justice.

You could use that bottom end as a handy doorstop and it'd still look fast Wink
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j911brick

 
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Wed Feb 14, 2007 2:30 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

Is that crank knife edged?
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Wrench.

 
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Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:56 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

No, they are not knife edged. I think knife edging for power is just an old wives tale that doesnt really do anything.

It does have steel caps around it, though, which I believe take up crank case volume without the added weight of a solid cast unit.

Heck, I could be totally off track, though...
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j911brick

 
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Thu Feb 15, 2007 2:41 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

I'm guessing you really can't knife edge a two stroke crank. I know it does would well on four strokes though.

How much clearance do you need between the throws and the case?
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james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
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Thu Feb 15, 2007 10:50 am » Post: #13 » Download Post

Knife edging an NSR crank would lose crank inertia, which might make it sound good on the stand, but it might make it slower down the chute. It would also increase case (free) volume, so would reduce pumping efficiency.

Some HRC kit cranks (RS250 for example) are made from tungsten and although they are smaller in diameter than the standard crank, they weight more and have a higher inertia. The smaller crank much be used with kit cases, which have a smaller crank case housing. All this help reduce case volume to hit the right ratio.

If the crank is well trued, and has the perfect balance factor, then you can run less than 1mm clearance without touching.

On RS125's in Japan we were skimming the OD of the crank and bushing the cases for less than 1mm clearance, with no touching.

The lighter crank went very well at short, point and squirt tracks, but a stock crank with bushed cases was the choice at the fast tracks.
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j911brick

 
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Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:48 am » Post: #14 » Download Post

Thanks Matt - that helps. I think the knife edging would hurt the pumping effeciancy and render the crank useless. What about polishing though?
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james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
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Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:47 pm » Post: #15 » Download Post

Polishing is for the dining room table.

Polishing cranks, rods etc is to remove stress raisers. Rods especially should then be blasted to put the surface into compression.

Get in there and polish the cases to remove all bumps and bruises, but then go over it with an emery wheel (or something) to roughen the surface.
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