hi folks, in the process of stripping down my bike/motor after an engine fault (mc21) and just been pulling bits off as i go (1st bike in a few years and last ones were all diesel race bikes so cant believe how much crap there is to get round on a road bike). anyway im up to removing the cylinders and im kind of stuck on the power valves, i know the main bolt is a left hand thread but im struggling to even get the cables from the pulley is there a trick to this? i read a post after a search on topic that you shouldnt remove the shaft whilst motor is in situ in case valves drop into engine, is this correct? also not sure if im just not being thorough enough but ive searched the service manual and on engine removal it says to remove rc valve control cables and refers to section 19-3 but there is no section 19-3, can anyone shed light on this please?

all help greatly appreciated. cheers, andy.

Hi,
I normally just undo the lefthand nut, slide off the powervalve actuating lever that
the cables are attached to, undo the two bolts holding the adjuster bracket to the
cylinder and tie-wrap the assembly out of the way. Look at the parts manual to check
for washer positions etc.

Section 19 of the manual covers inspection and trouble shooting of the Control Unit (PGM), Servo Motor (RC Valve) and Oil Pump.

If you remove the pulley, that will give you more play to remove the control cables from the pulley. Loosen the adjuster nuts on the adjuster to get play in the cables and remove the pulley off the valve shaft.

As for removing the valves with the cylinders on the cases, it can be done, just do one at a time and drop the piston below the exhaust port.

Now I wouldn't recommend actually removing the valves that way as there is a lot of carbon build up on the valves/shaft that you probably dont want getting down into the cases and into the bearings.

cheers guys and thanks for taking time to reply. nice n easy when you know how, cables and pulleys all disconnected so its nearly time to find out what the hell is up in there. i am fearing the worst mind

ok so im down to just unbolting the motor. short upper aft bolt no problem thats out but im struggling with others. 1st the lower long aft bolt, ive removed the 14mm nut and thought the long bolt would just push through with the allen bolt being used to push the motor over and the large flat nut securing that. is this how it is because the long bolt/spindle wont budge and i cant budge the large flat nut but im not trying too much until i understand how its all assembled/disassembled. next is the forward mounts again removed the 14mm nut and rubber washer/spacer to be faced with a weird set up just past that looks like a spline so i dont know where to go from here. help please.

Andy dont know if ive got my wires crossed with the online manual but say a section goes from 19-1 to 19-6 i can only get 19-1 it then goes to 20 but this is on most sections. im expecting more detail but am i right to? am i doing something wrong?although the engine removal section is complete its very basic for removal basically just reading "remove bolts and lower", yes engines are just fixed in with nuts and bolts so am i just encountering stiff bolts/spindles or pussying around too much?

cheers, andy

A greater proportion of the English Service Manuals has been published in the Members Area, but not the full manuals. The full manuals are only available as a "hard copy" for purchase.

The engine mounting bolts should just slide out, so they are probably just a little corroded, and stuck in place. Don't forget the torque link (to the rear of the drive sprocket) when dropping the motor, and removing the oil pump and coolant "splitter" union at the front of the transmission cover makes removal/refitting easier* too. The large allen "grub" screw (12mm internal hex) should be wound out at least flush with the frame, to give the most room to manoeuvre the motor in and out of position.

*Be warned, the plastic coolant union is a pig to refit once the motor's back in... a real catch 22 situation. Refitting the motor with the plastic union already attached takes some real jockeying, but fitting it without it attached sees the motor almost fall into place. You choose to eaither struggle to fit the motor, or struggle to fit the union! I still don't know which I prefer!
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cheers Andy, oil pump removed and ive disconnected the coolant splitter already, if the torque link is the short allen bolt at the back of the motor inside the frame then ive got that one. so seams im up against a bit of corrosion on the 2 long spindles 1 at the rear and 1at the front engine mounts, just to confirm is this 1 long bolt?

Yes, they are long bolts. Check the diagrams in the parts manual, and you'll see.
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cheers Andy. I got the engine on the bench over the weekend and removed cylinders and heads yesterday, was expecting to find a circlip or ring missing from noise it made but everything in tact. Somethings been in there as head was well pitted and there was light damage to piston crown and light scoring down the sides of piston but no idea whats done it. when i removed the stuffers there were deposits on gaskets in the middle of intakes where its obvious air and dirt have been getting in. Any ideas of any areas to check from here?
The plan from here in is to take my time, try and order everything i need to rebuild bottom end get it ordered then strip, check and rebuild it. Was quite surprised at how easy it was to get to this point but obviously not having worked on these before needed a few pointers and thanks for words of advise from the forum members that chipped in.
Just one last Q, i was wondering where is best to get parts from, i know Andy has quite a few bits on here like bearings and some performance parts but what about things like top end kits or gasket sets, are they available through the site? i know tyga has them and Matt is a trusted forum member but im a little confused as im sure its not worth sending just a gasket set from Thailand but i also know there is a UK site so how does that work and finally what about run of the mill parts taht might have been corroded or damaged is it a trip to a honda dealer?
Thanks again, Andy

NSR-WORLD can do everything, but you are welcome to use whoever! The Marketplace isn't the cheapest option, but I am working on it. The little I do make does help go towards costs, and as Bully said in another thread, I'm certainly never going to get rich from it. What I can do though is put together orders that come from various unlisted suppliers. I've sourced Ferodo and EBC brake pads, Talon and Renthal sprockets, Q/R fuel couplings etc., all by request.

TYGA will send stuff to you direct but you will have to pay shipping, which isn't cheap despite Thailand's massive export economy! (You may also have to pay import duty and tax, but not always.)

Jap4Performance will give you a little discount, being a supporting vendor.
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cheers Andy (again), i can see you put a lot of effort into this forum and its members. makes me glad i signed up and peace of mind that i wont be left short of the odds n ends to complete my build up.

It won't stop us taking the p*ss from time-to-time though!
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Andy wrote:
*Be warned, the plastic coolant union is a pig to refit once the motor's back in... a real catch 22 situation. Refitting the motor with the plastic union already attached takes some real jockeying, but fitting it without it attached sees the motor almost fall into place. You choose to eaither struggle to fit the motor, or struggle to fit the union! I still don't know which I prefer!

Wobble bits are you friend!

As a bit of a questionable bloke once said;

Matt@TYGA wrote:Wobbly adapters are a gift from the heavens.

Or use allen head bolts [blasphemy]instead of what Honda used[/blasphemy] and ball ended allen keys.
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