Hello guys. Does anyone have a diagram of the MC28 dry clutch assembly sequence.
We took mine apart today as it's been damaged beyond repair by a coolant leak. Slipped and cooked itself. However when taking it apart to look at the extent of the damage that and it would appear it has been put together incorrectly. I can't see the assembly on the on line workshop manual despite being a titanium member. Haven't got time to order the paper copy and wait etc. The parts manual appears to show a break in the steel and friction plate set up. My one appeared to have two steel plates together in the middle as opposed to the usual sequence of steel friction all the way through. I understand that Andy Grant built this clutch so I'm wondering if he's right and for some reason the sequence differs in the NSR dry clutch. Some of the OEM parts do not appear to be in there and this may have been made up using spares as opposed to a full clutch kit etc. Who knows. But if anyone help would be most appreciated. An email of the exploded diagram would be great while I wait for the manual order etc.

What exactly am I being accused of?!

I've not had someone else's clutch out for years... and don't recall ever even fitting one to an MC28!

The thinnest plate goes in first, then friction with the damper rubbers, then alternate the remaining steels and frictions. The OPM tells you how many of each plate/type there should be.
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Hi Andy. You're not being accused of anything and I have had a look on the OPM on line parts manual to see the part numbers etc. The diagram shows the sequence but not all of them. Maybe someone has copied this as it appears to show two steels together when this is a break. Would have been better if Honda showed the whole sequence.
Any idea why the clutch assembly isn't shown on the on line workshop manual? Spent ages going through the pages but couldn't see it.
In my case when we took it apart there were Two steel plates had been left together in the middle and the friction plate with the damper rubbers was not in there. All the friction and steels look the same in overall shape and thickness. Have not measured thickness as need new steels due to excessive blueing. Saying that the final steel may still be stuck in the back of the basket. But it didn't have the damping friction plate or the little bungs.
Without having the new set I'm assuming that you can visually tell the diff between the two diff steel and friction plate types quite easily? I've made a list to contact Ling's and David Silver re availability. The forum marketplace makes reference to thicker steel plates but only supplies one in the kit. I think I'd rather stick to OEM thickness. Wouldn't you? As otherwise it'll end up almost 5mm thicker if all thicker plates used.
Interestingly Tyga list an OEM kit and all bar one item has the same as the parts manual listing. Tyga advertise all the steels being the same instead of having one diff.
I assume the single steel of diff thickness makes a diff. Or does it?
Sorry for the essay but just want to get it sorted asap especially as the weathers great at the moment.
Regards
Graham

The thin steel stands out a mile off and may have been replaced in your clutch by a normal one, it has been my previous experience that this is a good idea.

The back friction plate just has some damping rubbers on the castellated bits, it's the same friction plate (the rubbers are actually a separate part when you get a new clutch), leaving them off makes the clutch rattle more, it is again common to see.


You're right, it's not a complete sequence, but the order is;

thin steel (you can use a thick one)
friction plate with dampers (these don't really matter and are a separate part)
steel plate
friction pate
steel plate
friction pate
steel plate
friction pate
steel plate

If someone has fitted 2 steels at the rear I'd suggest either they looked at a wet clutch diagram and thought the judder spring was another plate or that's all they had, didn't care as they understood how the clutch works and realised it'd work to a degree.
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Last edited by fontyyy on Mon May 28, 2012 10:30 pm; edited 2 times in total

How bad are your steel plates ? If you are skint you can blast the steel plates and they will be fine afterwards .

Cheers for the input guys. Someone else mentioned blasting the steels too. But they are quite blue from the heat and and my mate who's sorting it for me thought they're past their best.
It's interesting what you say Fontty about the inner most steel plate. As I've made a stock enquiry with Lings and the thin steel plate and the damper friction plate are both poss hard to get and they won't know until they place the order.
Also those little damper o ring things are well expensive @£10.78 each and will need four.
The bike (Tom's old MC28 sp) didn't have the damper friction plate and damper o rings in there and it didn't sound too loud. So I'm wondering if these two single items (thin steel and damper friction) and the damper rings were left out and replaced with normal friction and steel plates if it would make a difference. Or could or should I file a standard friction plate to fit the damper rings if this item is no longer available?
Going to see if Jap4performance have their kit in stock as the only diff they have is they list 6 standard steels as opposed to the 5 & 1.

Personally I'd put it together with normal (thick) steels and no rubbers.
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Hi guys. Thanks for your info before. I hope you can sort out a query for me. I'm finishing off rebuilding the dry clutch on my MC28 and come across another problem. Looking at the parts manual it showed there should in total be 6 steels and 5 friction plates. 1 thin steel and 5 thicker ones. 5 frictions 1 damper and 4 normal. I understand using standard steels and frictions would still work ok. So having removed 5of each initially we were thinking the inner most steel was still in the basket as I removed 5 of each we were shocked to see it wasn't in there. It was the back of the basket that had polished up that we could see. So we put it back together with a friction in 1st ending up with steel at the front behind the spring plate. Comparing to a Honda Haynes manual for another asked that my mate had the sequence differs as he doesn't think there should be a steel outermost. Thing is there is a missing steel and this goes in first etc then there would be both a steel innermost and outermost. Both steels would then back onto the metal inner basket and outer clutch plate faces. My friend thought this goes against the grain. If it wheres out I'd buy some replacement parts as necessary.
Cheers guys

Fontyyy's already answered this question...

Fontyyy wrote:
thin steel (you can use a thick one)
friction plate with dampers (these don't really matter and are a separate part)
steel plate
friction pate
steel plate
friction pate
steel plate
friction pate
steel plate

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Sorry I should have made myself bit clearer.. if I'm missing a steel plate would I be best to put friction in first to leave steel on the outer, or steel in first leaving friction outer. Thinking what may be best before I order spares. Or if I'm missing one it makes no diff either way.

You'd be best to buy another steel, and build it properly!

You risk damaging the basket (£200+) or the pressure plate (£50+) if you assemble it incorrectly. Both cost considerably more than a new steel plate.
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Andy.
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Thanks Andy. I was thinking that too.. it's a wonder it worked ok to begin with. What with finding the two steels together in the middle first and find it's missing a steel plate all together.. best start ordering bits then. Cheers.

A couple of steels in the middle won't hurt, and the clutch will still work, to a degree.

The steel on the inside and outside of the assembly is to give the friction plates something hard wearing to run against, rather than the alloy of the basket and pressure plate.
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Andy.
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Cheers Andy. For your info we tried putting the clutch back together momentarily and without the missing steel just to check the bike ran and warmed up when we filled up with coolant etc. Friends of mine thought the old steels and frictions would work as not too badly warped etc. However when we tried pulling away it was obvious that with a couple of warped steels and missing one. That the bike didn't want to know. So going to order the full set of steels and frictions to be sure.. worth a try seeing if I could get away with only ordering one steel etc. But a no go... Every day is a school day as they say.

<shameless sales pitch!>

I can do you an EBC heavy duty clutch and individual steels, if you're having problems ordering.

Both the EBC clutch and (uprated) 2.9mm steel are listed in the Marketplace.

</shameless sales pitch!>
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