Hi all
Ok I live in Thailand and own a NSR150RR, as parts are cheap here I did a little work on it.......

New Piston and rings along with little end bearing
1 day spent with the compressor and the die grinder on the ports, done by me.
New clutch basket
Second hand Racing pipe
Trumpet on the back of the carb (no air box and no filter)

the result is pure animal!!
I am at the stage of trying to tune the carb, the main jets are not so much of reamed but more of bored!!

At this point I would like to state that I am a 41 year old engineer that has played on crazy projects about the world and still get paid silly money to do crazy projects, so what you are about to read is the insane build of a old NSR150RR designed to fulfill the little boy in me. I get a couple of hours a day working on the bike, it is first steps in the project as it is only a couple of days since it was back on the road, but many will laugh at the extreme side to things and the direction this is going, in a world where a rebore and new piston costs about $40 usd you get to have a little fun! Enjoy the read.

after reading the parts list and the little changes many would say add a larger carb...... with the standard carb with no filter and just a trumpet with all that unrestricted air flow the results are mind blowing, so for the time being I am going to stick with a standard carb as I think there are a few other things I can do that will result in a better kick for about 20 seconds!

I had some time today where I had full power and everything worked like it should in the high revs.... WOW!
This thing is crazy, power starts to come on at 8,000 rmp at 9,500rpm it starts to kick, at 11,000 it is still pulling hard (redline). I will pull the flywheel off this week and take it to my machinist and have them remove some excess weight so that I can get the rpm into the power zone.

When this first started to kick I had a standard airbox and filter, you could feel the engine start to work but it could not get the airflow.
looking at what I could buy off the shelf it was a pod filter that had 90 deg corners or it was a trumpet with no filter..... the trumpet won!!

Standard Main jets were not going to work on this puppy!! I didnt have a clue where to start, so out came the tip cleaners for the oxy/acet torch. I progressively moved up in size, after putting the verniers on it I found it to be about 2.05mm, that is like a cannon!!!!
As for these people talking about mods too there NSR150's i find a little problem with my bike.......... There is no information on what I am playing with!!!!

Let me describe to you the moment when it kicks, the induction noise is stunning by itself, but added to that is the sound from the unrestricted pipe, when these two sounds resonate in tune the kick is amazing, with something close to a flat change (just a touch of clutch) and it is power zone in the next gear and so the story continues until it is time to end the rush and jump on the anchors!

This bike is putting out massive amounts of power, more than stock that is for sure, i would say I have an increase of around 40% as it stands now and I have not hit the correct tuning. With the next month spent on getting the carb correct and a few minor changes i think the numbesr that people are talking are going to seem a little week! 37 hp?? hahaha no way, this thing is pure animal and already passing that mark and it is still coughing like it has phenomena.

I was out playing in the rain today, so this thing was eating water, I did have the side panels on but still it was running a little of natures water injection, the running temp was down that is for sure, it also had a nicer crack to the sound, the reason I mention this is that it the fact it is rainy season in Thailand, when hot season comes that will be a different tuning story unless........

Water injection! every engine loves a rainy day........ so if it is not going to rain then with a little help from engineering I am sure I can make it seem like it is raining, a little spray on the radiator and a spray at the carb intake when under full throttle might just help when the temps start getting high, direct spray hitting the carb will help to add a little cooling as well as the temps can climb when stuck in traffic.

It will be getting a Fan on the Radiator very soon, this will be direct wired to the key, I am also looking at making an air box to cover the carb, there is fake ducting in place so I am looking at using this to feed the old girl air, the problem being that it may get a little warm going though all that ducking......... Unless

Here is the next stage of the plan designed for the hot weather!

Peltier Thermo-Electric Cooling Module.... add a few of these to a box filled with water and you start to get very very cold water add some antifreeze and you get some super cooling, when that is put though some computer CPU coolers that were are in the ducting forming intercoolers tpUhen it will cool the air, add to that a little ice water injection and that should make a happy engine!
CPU cooler http://images.anandtech.com/doci/5054/h60-h80-h100.jpg
Peltier http://www.amazon.com/TEC1-12709-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier-138-6Wmax/dp/B002UQ150Q/ref=pd_sim_misc_4

The plan is to run the units up with the fluid pumps off, this will allow the motor to charge the batt to run the peltiers, when everything is cold, turn off all the peltiers and the charging system to allow the charging system to shut down to reduce load on the motor.

20 sec before start cooling pumps to freeze the intercoolers, arm water injection system, 5 seconds before start radiator spray.
with a micro switch on the throttle this will allow to run the engine at 90% throttle to hit 9,000 rpm then to go 100% throttle with water injection.


More later on the story of the NSR150RR that is trying to kill me

Is it April the 1st already!

Wow, I admire people who do projects which I wouldn't even start once the little "feasibility study" in my head is finished.

Before starting with your supercolling with Peltier elements I would do some math and calculate how much energy you need to considerably cool the water and whether your charging system can supply this. You see, I like the theoretic approach, first check with little effort whether the big effort is justified.

But then again, you want the little boy in you fulfilled

Then again you can look at it from a different direction, the trick is not the amount of cooling the trick is the insulation of the water tank, that way it can take hours if it wants to cool, although having a business that does refrigeration and aircon is also a wee advantage.
It is not possible for the charging system to run the peltiers to give a real time effect, so the only other way is to use ethyl glycol as the "storage" chill down 3 liters of liquid to about -18 then when ready, pump that through the intercooler this will give about 20 seconds of super cooling, the trick will be to work out the min temp possible so as not to freeze the intercoolers with ice from condensation.

The other issue is that there is a 99% chance that after running up the peltiers to chill the tank that the battery is going to be dead flat, this will require a change over to another cell to run total loss ignition during this time with the charging system disconnected to reduce the load on the motor, pumps and ignition can run off a 12 volt lithium battery for 1 min no problem, this helps to keep the weight down a little.

There are two ways to go at life, the designer that dreams and the engineer that takes those dreams and turns them to reality, I have been that engineer for some time, now it is time for the little boy that has dreamt so many personal designs to put some into reality.
There comes a time when you avoid the paperwork and go with the freestyle, ok so 240 watts of peltier cooling on a highly insulated tank should have an effect, time will be the unknown! Paperwork done, now time to build!!

hmm. So if you only require 20 sec. of super cooling, why don't you just cool your ethyl glycol in your refridgerator to -18°C and then put it in the insulated box, hook it to the bike and get rid of all the complexity of additional batteries, switches, peltier elements, flat batteries ...
What is it I do not understand?

if you want to go down that road then one must ask the question "with good public transport why even ride a bike?"

why carry a fridge around with you?? well in this case due to the low temps it would be a freezer.

the idea is that I can have 20 sec of supper cooling at any time, with the addition of my system it means that it is possible to do illegal street drags without the need to carry a freezer with me.

Not only that given time (how much I dont know) the system can recharge itself whilst the engine is running.

If I was going to get anything out of the freezer and add it to the bike it would be more like dry ice. but at this stage I am not planning that extreme........yet....although it has been talked about.

What this also means is that you start the bike and go, you dont have to worry about adding anything other than some water and you can get that anywhere.
I am not expecting this system to take any longer than about 30 min to chill down, this means that I can do a run every 30 min or so.
There is some logic to my madness

That's one hell of a first post, BangkokKiwi! Welcome to NSR-WORLD.

First off, I think you will be lucky to crack 35hp with an RR motor, let alone 40hp (you should source yourself an SP motor, with the later barrel), second, go for it, and keep us posted!

Always lots of free time to get up to wacky things in Thailand, and as you say, testing things to destruction is cheap over there!
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I see many people talking about the SP motor, the thing I dont understand is the ports! from what I have seen the SP has a very small exhaust port where the RR has one massive port.

as for my little RR there has been massive work done flowing the ports and I do mean a lot of work!! I spent the best part of a day in total working on those ports. dont get me wrong it was not a "grind it out to the max" it was a technical job with many an hour spent designing the flow.

as for the hp number that people quote, you have to remember that they are running filtration on the carb this in turn gives restriction. My unit is direct unrestricted airflow with the addition of a trumpet that helps to increase the flow. A lot of people run the common pod filter, this again is not good, if you look to the inside of a pod filter they have very sharp 90 deg corners this will mess up airflow for sure!

when looking at the possible power the easy way to gauge things is look at the fuel flow, this can be done by looking at the size of the main jet, as it will not be possible to hit the high numbers if the fuel flow is anywhere close to standard.

To get anything close to the correct size jet I had to increase the diameter of the main jet by 50% this is well outside what people are doing for jetting. the power of an engine cannot exceed the energy of the fuel supplied, in this case I had to supply it stupid amounts of fuel to get somewhere close.

To give you an example
a 100mm pipe has a flow rate of 1,185 liters per min
a 150mm pipe has a flow rate of 2,650 liters per min

50% increase gives over double the flow rate.
Double the fuel is double the energy, I understand you are not going to get double the power as things dont work that way.
lets say that my 100% increase of fuel resulted in guess of about 40% increase of power........

further update for you

Fuel consumption is INSANE!!! 3km per liter or about 7 miles to the gallon (us)
Now in saying this it was running too rich, I rode it in this setting, top end no good too rich, bottom end rough too rich.
BUT IT WAS RUNNING!!!!
As for the peak power output to be honest I have no idea, I will at a later date put it on a dyno. At this point all I can say is that the kick is crazy and the fuel consumption is justified. this little crazy thing is using more fuel than my yamaha RZ350 I had running on alcohol !!

I am thinking that the fuel consumption at race level riding will be about this setting, 7 mile to the gallon, as I had 1/3 of this metering trip in slow conditions 2/3 at high throttle

After messing with the needle height I have found a mid- range that works but the top endis too lean.

I have also found a great setting for the top end, but with the bottom end rich now the trick will be to find how to combine the two

I know that this is a result of incorrect jetting but I am thinking of adjusting the needle to suit the flow required.

I can hit a fantastic top end with one needle setting but the bottom end is carp and carboning up, I can re-adjust and get a great bottom and mid range but the top revs are then lacking.

As it is hard to find a supply of jets big enough then I have decided to sculpture the needle, I will attempt to create the same high speed setting at the point where the needle is 2 clicks lower. as for the size of the jets, I have them to a point where I get 2 great results, 1 click above center and 1 click below center, I feel I have gone to large in the mid range jet.
To safeguard the motor I have been working in the super rich area and leaning out to find the power zone. I feel it is better to carbon up than to lean out and burn out. this does create that carbon cough that takes a wee bit to clear.

Many might see this as insane, but lets be real.... the shop around the corner has a new carb on the shelf for a grand total of $13 USD. So days of fun so far playing and a grand cost of 13 bucks if I mess it up or if I really do a large botch up then I need a rebore and piston as well so it will cost me $53 USD in total, hell a man can be running that much per minute in Bangkok when in the bars!!!

I feel this is a job for some tape, the cordless drill and the needle files along with the verniers.

Here is another factor that makes this bike different from others.....

The noise of the thing!!
Pure ANIMAL. I have ignored any laws that Thailand might have with regards to noise level, the induction noise (carb) alone would be enough to have me pulled over in New Zealand, the noise from the pipe would get my bike locked up by police in any normal world and a good chance I too would be locked up as well. Here it is a different story, the police are cool and give people room to have fun! I LOVE THE THAILAND POLICE!!!

YOU CANNOT RIDE THIS UNIT IN THE WESTERN WORLD! not even on a race track as they too have restriction on noise.
This has allowed me to pursue insane settings with the bike that would not normally be possible. How else is it possible for a 150cc to be doing 3km to the liter of 95 octane fuel !

I will look to posting some pics tomorrow for you all to look at along with my laptop with this tread open so that the doubters may have there doubts turned to shock and laughter!

PDK pipe installed
This is a old school classic for Thailand, PDK do a nice pipe but it is classed as illegal, the police allow it to slip by due to the fact it is old and a classic by their standards.

I can understand the reason for it being illegal, the sound is amazing it has that race track crack to it, I am impressed with the power curves, this is one smooth pipe, they have managed to retain the lower power and give a smooth transition into the power band........... Smooth is not what many would call it but after many years playing with aggressive two strokes this is a nice piece of engineering!

hahahah the wife just got a taste of the noise that this animal puts out, she pushed me to take her nephew up the road for a blast, not allowed to open it up within about 1km of the house!!

Just stripped the carb and removed the needle, I then fitted it to the cordless and changed the profile a wee bit.

shortened it by about 2.5mm and adjusted the taper a little. I will now try it at its lowest point as last time the mid range was still to rich, this should put my mid range good and my top end in need of a little more fuel.

The plan is to do this in steps, as it is easy to grind down a needle but not so easy to add some if you get it wrong!

have taken some pics will upload later

The needle grind seems to have done massive amounts!!

I have a great low end and great top end but a little cough at about 6,000 rpm, it still seems to be running a little rich across the board so I think I will drop the float level a little and test again.

also will drop in a new plug as that one has had a lean rich bashing in life!