I'm trying to set my rear end,when bikes on paddock stand and i lift up rear end as stated in tuning section there is no movement in rear shock as the whole bike lifts off the stand
Does this mean my spring preload is too hard?
setup isnt standard 16 as i have an rk5 swingarm,link rod assembly and a rk6 sp shock fitted.
Cheers Rob
It's very extreem, had my bike set like that once and it was too hard. Mine is set to about 5mm now. It needs the static just to let it rise a bit under braking without lifting the wheel. It's probably less than you'd need on a 4 stroke with engine braking. _________________ http://www.rgv250.co.uk http://www.thetuningworks.com
Depends how heavy you are. The rear suspension should take up about a third of it's travel with you sat on it, so if the bike is light and you're a fat git, then it'll barely move with just the bike.
Measure the distance from the wheel spindle to the tail piece when the rear is off the ground.
Divide by three, and then use that figure as the reading for when you're sitting on it.
It's far easier to have a friend help doing this!
Then ride it and see what you think. Softening the rear will slow the steering a bit (unless you're hard on the brakes and the rear is unloaded of course) but will probably make you faster as the rear tyre will get an easier life and give you more grip... _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Also there is not much point getting tied up in pin point set up if the spring is not correct or the shock worn out.
My sag with rider on is about 25mm (10mm when someone thin sits on it lol), but yes you def need two people or you'll fall off trying to measure it _________________ http://www.rgv250.co.uk http://www.thetuningworks.com
Sean's right. If the spring is correct for your weight then you should always arrive around the same figures.
I run around 5mm static sag and 25mm perched on board. Less static sag can actually help increase straightline acceleration, but get's interesting on the brakes.
rgvsean wrote:Not if you have the correct spring fitted surely
Up to a point, but if you imagine a 100kg rider, on a 130kg bike, the rear spring has to cope with a massive increase once the rider is sat on it, so sag without the rider will be almost zero - hence the statment in post one that 'there is no movement... the rear just lifts off the stand'.
The bigger the bike, the less the ratio of rider to bike weight, so the rear sags even without anyone sat on it.
And yes, doing any kind of setup to an old, tired or simply wrong strength shock is a bit of a waste of time! _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
While I'm not a 100kg's lol, more like 99.8 I set my rear sag up between 0 and 2mm unloaded (more like you would exspect on a 125). This gives me no touble at all as long as the correct spring is fitted. Andy knows I had a few troubles getting the right one for the F3 shock, but it does feel great now. _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
Not sure, even a light bike when wet is around 140 making close to 70kg initial weight on the spring assuming a slight front weight bias. 70kg is still quite a lot of weight!
When you add your own weight of say 80-90kg don't forget this is distributed and not ALL on the rear shock so you may only increase the weight on the rear shock by 50-60, LESS than exerted by the bike.
No doubt, but is there really much point? As soon as you twist the throttle or jam on the brakes the whole distribution changes anyway, so providing you have the setup which works for you, then the actual numbers don't matter too much!
Speak to a pro suspension setter for the right spring weight, set up the rear for a thrid travel, and go play. Change only one thing at a time and keep records as you change things. _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
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